Technique for a Matte Finish on an Oil Painting
Oil paintings need a protective layer of varnish six months after they are finished. Once you are ready to varnish your painting, you can choose from glossy, matte or satin (also called semigloss) varnishes. A matte varnish makes a painting easier to view when it is placed by a window or other light source.
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Stroking the Varnish
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Many artists prefer to make their own varnish, using 1 part damar crystals to 3 parts turpentine. You need to suspend crystals in a cheesecloth bag. Do not use odorless turpentine, as the crystals will not dissolve properly in it. This varnish is glossy, but by stroking the varnish once you have applied it to the painting with your paintbrush, you break up its smooth surface and give it a matte quality.
Adding Wax to the Varnish
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Add wax to your damar varnish. Mix 4 parts damar varnish with 2 parts melted beeswax and 1 part turpentine. Turpentine fumes are noxious, so you should mix and apply the varnish in a well-ventilated area, preferably outdoors. The finished matte varnish will be a bit sticky. Apply the varnish with a paintbrush or rag. One thin coat of varnish is enough.
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Using Alkyd Oil Paints Instead of Traditional Oil Paints
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Use alkyd paints instead of traditional oil paints. Alkyd paints are made from an organic resin. They have the same qualities as oil paints; however, they dry more quickly. In addition, they do not have the lustrous finish of oil paints. To retain their matte quality, you need to apply a coat of matte varnish once the painting is finished and has been given enough time to dry completely.
Store-Bought Matte Varnish
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You can buy matte varnish in bottles or spray cans. The bottled varnish is best used for the final varnish, whereas spray-on varnish is best used for retouching. The final varnish is used to give the painting a protective covering after the paint has dried completely, whereas a retouch varnish, a more diluted form of varnish, is used to restore a painting's color and luster.
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References
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