Lessons on Using a Serger
A serger, or overlock machine, is similar to a sewing machine, but uses two to five threads at a time. Sergers are useful for making the stitch that wraps around the outer edge of the fabric, commonly found inside clothes, and cutting away excess seam allowance while sewing. While a serger cannot replace a sewing machine, these machines are a useful and time-saving sewing companion. Before using the machine, familiarize yourself with a few basic lessons and tips.
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Threading
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When threading a serger, always thread the machine in the correct order by following the manual for specific instructions, as this will reduce the risk of trapping the threads and causing thread knots and broken needles. Before threading, loosen the tensions, or knobs that control the tension of the thread, to allow the thread to fall correctly between the tension disks. After threading, reset the tensions to your desired setting. To untangle trapped thread, loosen the tension and gently pull the thread by hand or with tweezers.
Needles
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Always use the correct type and size of needle for your specific serger and for the type of fabric you are sewing. Refer to the chart in your manual for compatible needles and fabrics. Consider keeping extra needles on hand as it is important to change the needle frequently to reduce the risk of poor stitch quality. Bent or dull needles typically cause tension problems, broken threads, skipped stitches and damaged fabric. Change the needles after serging three garments, or more often for garments requiring a large amount of serging.
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Sewing
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When surging, remove the pins as you sew, as sewing over pins causes costly damage to the timing of the machine and the cutting knives. Avoid pushing or pulling on the fabric, as the machines feed dogs will grasp the fabric and pull it through without any assistance. Before starting on a garment, consider practicing on scrap material. Experiment with the machine and learn different tension settings for different types of fabric. Keep the manual nearby, as serging can be complicated for new users.
Cleaning
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Clean the machine on a regular basis to keep the machine running optimally. Refer to your manual for oiling instructions, as sergers need oiling, with sewing machine oil, on a regular basis to run properly. Use a small makeup brush or a can of air to clean the fabric and lint out of the machine regularly.
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References
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