Serger Technique

Become a serger expert with some simple techniques.

A serger, also known as an overlocking sewing machine, trims seams while enclosing the edge of fabric inside of a thread casing in a single step. Sergers come with many varying features, including width and densities, and come in many different price ranges and styles. You can learn basic serger techniques on a simple serger – those that have a 2- to 4-thread capability.

Techniques for Threading

Threading the serger is important to learn, as you cannot serge a single piece of fabric without appropriate threading. However, many people do not know how to properly thread their serger, leading to wasted thread and damaged projects. One important technique when it comes to threading, is to loosen the tensions all the way before beginning. This will cause the thread to sit between the tension disks. When you are done threading, reset the tensions to your liking.

If a looper thread breaks, unthread your needles before re-threading the lower loop that has broken. Failing to do so can result in the needle thread becoming trapped and entangled. Instead, take the time to unthread all needles and then re-thread the lower looper to get going again on your project.

Always be sure to thread the serger in the currect order. If you are unclear on what this order should be, consult your manual, as all brands are different. Reduce trapped thread instances by threading in the correct order, even if it is more time consuming to do so. Practice threading in order before you begin a project so you can do it quickly and easily before you're in the middle of something.

Techniques for Needles

Change your needles more frequently than you think you have to. If a needle dulls, it will cause stitches to be skipped and thread to break. Get into the habit of changing your needles for every three items you serge. Change your needles if you are working on a project and suddenly find your machine needs “adjusting.” Changing the needles should always be the first step toward a solution when you are looking for one.

Memorize the needle chart inside of your serger manual, or else keep it somewhere close, such as on the wall of your sewing room. Using the correct size and type of needles for your specific serger will make your project of higher overall quality, and will extend the life of your machine. To achieve a store-bought appearance in your projects, you need to use appropriate needle types.

Techniques for Completing a Serge

Start each project by testing the serge on a scrap of the same fabric you will use on your project. This will ensure you have the proper tension, length and width before you start on your actual project. Leave a four-inch chain of thread behind the foot on any project. This will prevent jams and can be even more beneficial to a project if you can hold the chain in your fingers for the first several stitches.

Watch the stitching while you serge. With sewing, many people look at the front of the needle, but with a serger it is essential to look behind it. You may not notice a thread has become tangled or broken unless you consistently monitor your stitches with a quick visual check throughout the serging process. The sooner you notice an issue, the easier the problem will be to repair.

Finally, do not serge over pins. Accidents happen, and even those who serge on a daily basis will accidentally run over a pin or two that has not been removed. However, in any circumstance, practice holding the fabric together. Simulating pins in this way will help you use less pins and prevent damage to your project and your machine. If you must use pins, use large ones with bright colors to avoid missing one while serging.

Techniques for Serging Difficult Fabric

Lycra is one example of a material that is challenging on any machine, including a serger. Most projects with lycra can be exceptionally difficult because they require a narrow stitch to complete. If you are serging lycra, try a three thread balanced stitch. Again, refer to the needle guide in your manual, and then thread only the upper and lower looper. Stitch a length of two and a half inches using a narrow to medium width, always testing on a scrap piece of fabric first to avoid ruining your almost-completed project.

References

• Diane Bossom's Serger Place: Serger Tips & Guidelines