Building a Bathtub Surround
While some bathtub/shower combinations are delivered from the manufacturer in a single piece, or several pieces to be assembled at installation time, this is not always the case. In the case of remodels, the single-piece tubs are too large to fit through existing finished doorways. Whether it's because of this size constraint or simply a design choice, some homeowners opt for building custom surrounds for their tubs and showers. This process, while not difficult, does require proper planning and materials to create a long-lasting, waterproof enclosure. Does this Spark an idea?
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Install Backer Board
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As with any tile installation, a substrate capable of holding the weight of the tile without allowing any motion is critical to keeping tiles and grout from cracking. There are many products available for use as a backer board. Select a product that's solid concrete board, not one with a gypsum core. Solid concrete boards contain no material that will mold or rot, so if water ever does penetrate the tile/grout surface and reach the backer board, there will be nothing to damage.
The backer board should be attached to the studs around the tub with special backer-board screws, which are coated and won't rust. Under no circumstances should drywall screws be used to attach backer board. Drive a backer-board screw into the studs approximately every 8 inches, making sure there's no motion in the board. Fill the seams between the backer board panels with thinset, and embed fiberglass mesh tape in the thinset to prevent motion between the two boards at the seam.
Seal the Transition
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Most tubs, especially new tubs, will have a "tile lip" on three sides--this is a vertical lip that extends above the top of the tub approximately 1/2 inch. Apply a thick bead of silicone to seal between this lip and the concrete board.
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Apply a Waterproof Membrane
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Although the tile and grout will prevent most of the water from reaching the backer board, it doesn't create an entirely waterproof surface. Installing a waterproof membrane between the backer board and the tile will keep all of the water on the tile side of the membrane and protect the structure behind the enclosure from any moisture damage. There are a number of products available, but they all attach to the surface of the concrete board with adhesive or thinset. Be sure to follow the manufacturer's specific instructions for adhesive type, if applicable.
Tile Over the Membrane
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Tile can be installed directly over the membrane, just as it can be installed directly to concrete board. The size of the thinset trowel notch depends on the type and size of the tile selected. Check with the tile distributor/manufacturer for the proper trowel size. Starting at the bottom in one of the corners, spread thinset onto the membrane and notch with the trowel. Spread a thin layer of thinset on the back of the tile and embed it in the notched thinset. Continue this process across the wall. Check each tile for plumb and level as it's applied, and adjust as needed. Use tile spacers to make fine adjustments and support each course of tile up the wall.
Clean and Grout
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Allow the thinset to dry for approximately 24 hours before grouting. Use sanded grout if possible, because it provides additional strength, especially for larger grout lines. Some tiles, though, can't be grouted with sanded grout, so check with the tile distributor to be sure. After the grout is dry, apply a layer of tile sealant to the entire surface of the grout and tile to protect it from stains and ease future cleaning.
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References
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