How to Grow Artichokes

Castroville, California, bills itself as "the Artichoke Capital of the World," but you don't have to live in the Golden State to grow these gems, thanks to new varieties that do just fine, thank you, in gardens from Maine to the Rocky Mountains.

Difficulty: Moderately Easy

Instructions

Things You'll Need:

• Mulch
• Garden Trowels
• Plants
• Shovels
• Compost Makers
• Garden Spades
• Fertilizers

1. Buy plants at your local nursery for planting after all danger of frost has past; otherwise, start seed indoors 8 to 12 weeks before the last spring frost.

2. 

   Choose a site that gets full sun, where the 4- to 5-foot-tall plants won't shade shorter crops and, if you're growing them as perennials, where they won't be disturbed.

3. 

   Look for rich, well-drained soil with a pH of 6.5 to 7.0. Dig the soil deeply, and add plenty of organic matter that is rich in phosphorus and potassium.

4. Harden off your seedlings, whether homegrown or store-bought, and then plant them at least 3 feet apart in rows that are 5 to 6 feet apart. In mild regions, set plants into the ground so that the crown is just above the soil surface; set them deeper in colder regions.

5. 

   Keep the soil moist-mulching will help retain moisture-and feed with fish emulsion or other organic fertilizer from spring to midsummer.

6. Treat artichokes as annuals in cold climates. In milder regions, cut the plants back in mid to late fall. In zones 8 through 10, they should need no winter protection. In zones 4 through 7, cover each plant with an inverted bushel basket and mound pine needles or leaves on top.

7. Harvest artichokes before the buds start to open and they're still green and tight. The central bud usually ripens first, followed by the smaller ones that form on side shoots.

Tips & Warnings

• Call nurseries in your area to find out what varieties they carry and when their shipments begin arriving from the growers. At large garden centers, they usually start several weeks before the last frost date, with new stock arriving weekly through the planting season.
• If you start artichokes from seed, promote early flowering by soaking the seeds in water for 8 hours, and then refrigerating them for two weeks in a jar filled with slightly moist sand.
• Gardeners in mild climes can grow any artichoke variety that strikes their fancy. If your growing season is short, good choices are Imperial Star or Grande Beurre. In the Southwest, try Texas Hill; it's bred to perform in high heat, alkaline soil and warm winters.

[Mlilah]

on 5/4/2008 My artichoke was in a 6" pot and was planted in heavy clay soil with a slightly alkaline pH. I dug a hole, threw in some compost and mulched around the plant - this was in late October in Zone 8 (Buda, Texas). The watering was by hand, every few days. During the winter, the plant had no protection and withstood light frosts and one ice-covering. It continued to grow all winter, and by April was starting to bud. There are 22 heads on the plant and are in the 6 foot tall range. I am thrilled.

[merrimeredith]

on 5/17/2007 How do I get the seeds from an artichoke?

on 11/22/2005 For years I thought Castroville billed itself as the artichoke capital of the world, only to discover I was wrong. They bill themselves as "The Artichoke Center of the World." Don't feel bad-my brother lives in Watsonville (next door to Castroville)and thought Castroville was the capital of artichoke world, too.

on 11/22/2005 I live in Southern California and I am a back yard grower with very little room for plants. I manged to plant several artichokes and have had a very good harvest for two years in a row. My success is from blood meal fertilizer and good watering. During the course of the year I rough up the soil around the plant and put blood meal all around the plant. I usually deep water after that and the plants go crazy. I also place mulch all around the plant during the winter months, but I swear the blood meal really produces a great harvest of artichokes!