How to Build a Clay Wedge Table

How to Build a Clay Wedge Table thumbnail
A wedging table makes preparing your clay easier.

Wedging is a process by which clay is prepared for working. It distributes the moisture in the clay, eliminates hard spots and forces out air bubbles. Anyone who works with clay needs a proper surface on which to wedge their clay. Professional wedging tables are expensive and hard to find. You can make your own clay wedge table at home with only a few tools.

Things You'll Need

  • 1/2-inch-thick hardwood, preferably poplar
  • Electric saw
  • Wood glue
  • Clamps
  • Wood screws
  • Electric drill
  • Plaster or concrete
  • Wedging wire
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Instructions

  1. Instructions

    • 1

      Build the box that will hold the plaster. Cut a piece of 1/2-inch hardwood to form the base of the box. In general, 2 feet by 3 feet is a decent size, though you may wish to build a box that's a little larger.

    • 2

      Cut the sides of your box with the saw. The sides should be 3 inches in height and 1/2-inch wide for a standard wedge table.

    • 3

      Assemble the box by placing the edges on top of the base and lining them up along the edges. Secure them using wood glue. Clamp and allow to dry. A number of brands of wood glue have different drying times, so consult the manufacturer's directions to determine the exact drying time necessary for the glue you're using.

    • 4

      Remove the clamps and prepare to build the legs of the table. The legs should be 2 inches square and as long as necessary to make the table a comfortable height for your working environment --- consider whether you'll typically be standing or sitting when using the table. Because you only have 1/2-inch hardwood, cut four strips for each leg. These strips should be 2 inches wide and as long as necessary. Glue four strips together so that they form a table leg that's square in shape. Clamp and let dry according to the manufacturer's directions. Repeat these steps to build three more table legs.

    • 5

      Invert the box and glue the table legs into position, one at each corner of the box. Clamp and allow to dry according to the manufacturer's directions. Stand the table upright and add two screws to each leg for stability. You can screw right through the bottom of the box and into the legs.

    • 6

      Add braces to the legs to make sure the table doesn't wobble. Cut two pieces of hardwood for each leg and install them diagonally. One end should be screwed into the leg; the other should be screwed into the box. For a better fit, cut the ends of the braces at an angle --- 45 degrees is usually sufficient, though you might prefer to have your braces placed at a different angle.

    • 7

      Cut the bar that holds the wedging wire --- 2 inches by 18 inches is usually sufficient. If you're building a large table, you may need a longer bar. Affix this bar to one long side of the table using wood glue and screws. For additional stability, install the bar on the inside of the box as opposed to the outside. When finished, the bar should be centered along the back side of the table.

    • 8

      Cut two notches to hold the wedging wire. One notch should be 1/2 inch deep and cut into the top of the wedging wire bar; the second notch should be 1/2 inch deep and cut into the center of the front of the table. This notch should be exactly opposite the notch in the bar.

    • 9

      Mix your plaster according to the package directions. Make sure that you use a potter's plaster. As an alternative, you may use concrete; however, concrete is heavy and may make the table difficult, if not impossible, to move without assistance.

    • 10

      Add the wedging string. Tie a large knot in either end of the string and thread it through both notches. The string should be tight, so tighten it a number of times until you're satisfied it's tight enough.

    • 11

      Pour the plaster into the box. Fill the box right to the top and smooth it carefully. Allow this to dry and cure; the package should specify appropriate drying and curing times. Don't attempt to hasten these drying times, or you'll end up with cracked or otherwise damaged plaster.

    • 12

      Once cured, move the table to the location of your choice. The table is now ready to use.

Tips & Warnings

  • If you're worried about plaster chipping off and mixing with your clay, put canvas over the plaster when the table is in use.

  • If you're making a larger table, consider dividing the box into two or more sections. This helps prevent the plaster from cracking as it cures.

  • A finished table may be quite heavy. To avoid strain and injury, ask a friend to help you move the table when necessary.

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References

  • Photo Credit Photos.com/Photos.com/Getty Images

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