How to Sew a Second Layer onto a Skirt

You can create a layered skirt from a non-layered skirt pattern.

Layered skirts look attractive and fit in well with the popular fashions of today. Making your own layered skirts allows you to create your own fashion statement by choosing your own fabrics and decorations. Some skirt patterns by Simplicity, McCalls, Vogue and Butterick already have a layered option, but you can make a layered skirt even if the pattern doesn't have a second layer. You will need to purchase almost twice the amount of material for the second layer, so plan accordingly.

Things You'll Need

• Scissors
• Pins
• Measuring tape or ruler
• Chalk
• Material
• Pattern
• Pattern board or layout table
• Thread
• Sewing machine
• Elastic or zipper
• Craft paper or tissue paper (optional)

Instructions

1. Shorten the length of the skirt pattern panel pieces by 2 to 3 inches for the overskirt. (You may find this step easier to do, and repeatable if you use craft or tissue paper to make a second set of skirt panels and follow these instructions on the second set of panels. When making a second pattern set, repeat all the markings on the originals.) Begin at the hemline on one side of the skirt panel and measure 3 inches up and make a mark across the top edge of the ruler. Move the ruler over a couple of inches and repeat the process, following the curve of the skirt bottom and angling the ruler so the new line follows a similar curve. Continue until you have a series of lines 3 inches above the original skirt hemline.

2. Connect the line to make a continuous line across the bottom. If you are using the original pattern piece, fold the pattern along the line you've created and pin into place. If you are using a copy of the pattern, cut across the line. Repeat the process with all the skirt panels.

3. Lay out the pattern pieces. Cut the second set of skirt panels for the top layer. Remember to follow the same line for lining up the pattern with the selvage edges.

4. Cut out and mark the second set of panels. Make darts for both sets of panels if there are darts in the panels. If the top of the skirt has gathers, you will gather the pieces as a unit.

5. Sew all the panels of the long layer together, following the pattern instructions. Hem the skirt. Repeat with the shorter layer.

6. Place the shorter panel right-side up on the right side of the longer panel. Pin them together. Baste the panels together across the top edge so they don't shift. If you have a gathered skirt, run a gathering stitch through both layers of skirt and gather, following the skirt pattern instructions.

7. Lay the waistband with the right side of the band facing the right side of the shorter layer. Pin into place, adjusting the material to the waistband. Sew into place. Fold the waistband over and sew it down on the other side.

8. Add the elastic or zipper according to the pattern instructions. Complete any finish work noted in the instructions.

Tips & Warnings

• Some fabric cutting boards have curved lines for making hem lines. You can use these to help you shorten the skirt pattern if the skirt is full enough.

References

• Cut Out and Keep: Ruffled Layer Skirt
• Ruffles and Stuff: Murphy's Layered Skirt