How to Make a Beaded Elizabethan Caul

A caul is a circular-shaped cap similar to a snood.

A caul is a medieval circular hat worn primarily by women. Elizabethan refers to the period in history in which Queen Elizabeth I ruled over the United Kingdom from 1558-1603. At this time, cauls had evolved from their "baby cap" or skullcap origins into a type of velvet, silk or linen pillbox-style cap overlain with netting, embroidery, or bead-work, and fitted over the back of the head above or around a bun like a snood. A caul pattern is simple in design, which can be hand-sewn and beaded easily.

Things You'll Need

• 1/2-yard fabric (linen, velvet, or silk)
• Scissors
• 12-inch embroidery hoop
• Needle
• Thread
• Ribbon
• Seed beads
• Measuring tape
• Clothing iron

Instructions

1. Cut a 12-inch diameter circle from a piece of linen, velvet or satin.

2. Cut a strip of fabric 2 inches wide and 21 inches long, and set aside.

3. Stretch the circular fabric into a 12-inch embroidery hoop so the fabric is centered in the hoop and fits snugly.

4. Cut several 16-inch strands of ribbon. Cross-hatch the strands over the fabric in the embroidery hoop to create a diamond or netting pattern on the fabric. Snip the ends off each strand where it meets the edge of the embroidery hoop. Stitch each strand of ribbon in place.

5. Push a needle from the bottom of the fabric (the side without ribbons cross-hatched over it) up through the cross-section of ribbon. While the needle is still taut in the fabric, slide a seed bead onto it. Slowly pull the needle up about 1 inch, then insert the needle back down into the cross section of ribbon beside the bead. Anchor the thread with a knot on the bottom of the fabric to secure the bead. Repeat with each cross-section of ribbon on the caul.

6. Hand-stitch the edge of the circular cloth using a basting stitch one-half inch from the outer edge. To baste, use a single strand of thread. Insert the needle, and anchor the thread as you normally would, then stitch in and out in a single line with each stitch measuring about one-fourth inch. Do not anchor the end of the thread.

7. Pull the end of the thread to gather the edges of the fabric so that it puckers. Gather it together until the circumference of the opening measures 20 inches.

8. Take the 2-inch strip of fabric, and fold it in half lengthwise. Use a clothing iron to press it flat along the crease. Fold the raw edges along the length inward one-half inch on either side so that you now have a 1-inch wide strip of hot-pressed, creased fabric.

9. Open the folded strip, and close it around the raw, gathered edge of the caul (the circular fabric) so that the raw, gathered edge of the caul is completely encased in the strip of fabric. Each end of the fabric will overlap one-half inch at the bottom of the caul.

10. Whipstitch the band into place. To whipstitch, insert the needle into the strip of fabric where it overlaps the circular fabric one-fourth inch from the inner edge, and pull the needle out through the circular fabric at the border of the strip fabric at an angle.

Tips & Warnings

• Add beading to the strip of fabric for the band, or add a metal chain to the top edges of the caul so it falls over your forehead to help keep the caul in place the way some Elizabethan women did.

References

• Barony of the Cleftlands; Constructing the Headdress of the 14th and 15th Centuries; Marie Vibbert
• "Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd"; Janet Arnold; 2001
• Elizabethan Costume Page: Constructing an Elizabethan Caul/Muffin Cap
• Central Washington University; Hand Sewing; Scott R. Robinson
• Suffolk County Community College: Hand-Stitching Samples
• Barony of the Cleftlands; Burgundian Costume; Marie Vibbert