How to Lay Out a Pattern on Fabric

How to Lay Out a Pattern on Fabric thumbnail
Use large straight pins to attach a pattern to fabric.

Sewing is a rewarding pastime, giving you the freedom to create original apparel and home decor items. Use your pattern as a guide to the type of fabric to use and purchase the required yardage based on the pattern's measurement chart. Read your pattern instructions carefully before starting any sewing project, especially the layouts. Prepare your fabric by preshrinking, if needed, and align the selvedge edges to ensure the grain is straight. With a little planning and preparation, you will enjoy a successful sewing project.

Things You'll Need

  • Pattern
  • Marker
  • Iron
  • Fabric
  • Scissors
  • Straight pins
  • Measuring tape
  • Fabric shears
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Instructions

    • 1

      Check the pattern for the appropriate pieces to use. Many patterns include various views, or styles, and include pieces specific to each view. Find the view on the instruction sheet with the pieces for the view you want to cut out and circle the view with a marker.

    • 2

      Cut the selected pattern pieces out from the large sheets. You do not need to cut exactly along the edges of each piece. Cut roughly around each piece to separate it from the large sheets with multiple images.

    • 3

      Spread the fabric out on a large work surface. Smooth out or iron wrinkles in the fabric, as needed, with an iron set to the appropriate setting for the fabric.

    • 4

      Check the pattern instructions for the correct layout for the view you are making. Determine if you need to fold the fabric. Identify your layout view on the instruction sheet. The fabric may be left open as a single layer or folded lengthwise, with the finished selvedge edges together along the length of fabric. It may also need folding with the fabric open to a single layer and the cut edges folded in, meeting in the center.

    • 5

      Look for special layouts, which may differ in order to accommodate special fabrics. If your fabric has a nap, such as corduroy or velvet, or if you need to match prints, such as plaids and repeat designs, there will be special layouts. Napped fabrics require positioning all pieces in the same direction. Plaids are easier to cut as single layers, which makes it easier to match the design on the two pieces. Circle the layout you will use with a marker.

    • 6

      Read the markings on the pattern pieces to identify those that are placed on a fold. A fold line will be a straight line parallel to the edge of the pattern piece with an arrow at each end pointing to where it should line up with a fabric fold. Line up the fold line and pin along the fold using straight pins. Pin perpendicular to pattern lines. Then pin the rest of the pattern piece to the fabric, smoothing out the pattern and fabric as you work.

    • 7

      Look for the grain line mark on the pattern pieces. This long, straight line helps line up the piece properly on the fabric. Place the grain line on the pattern so it is parallel to the selvedge edge of the fabric. Use a measuring tape to check that the distance from each end of the grain line to the selvedge is the same. Pin each end of the grain line to the fabric to keep the pattern from shifting. Pin the rest of the piece.

    • 8

      Check that all pattern pieces are pinned to the fabric. Double-check the piece numbers on each piece against the pattern instructions before cutting. If you have missed a piece, you still have time to reposition the pattern on the fabric.

    • 9

      Cut your pattern with fabric shears.

Tips & Warnings

  • As an alternative to straight pins, use fabric weights to hold the pattern in place while cutting. These are best suited to sheer or satin fabrics where pinholes may be left in the fabric.

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References

  • Photo Credit Jupiterimages/Polka Dot/Getty Images

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