How to Make Indian Weavings Out of Yarn

You can copy the techniques and motifs in Navajo rug weaving to make a bag.

Indian weavers of the American Southwest are proficient in a type of weaving called tapestry weaving, where the weft completely covers the warp. One example of this is the Navajo rug, with its characteristic Navajo symbols woven into the weft. Making a Navajo rug on an upright loom would be a daunting project, but you can make a handbag on a normal floor loom using some of the techniques that Navajo weavers use.

Things You'll Need

• Loom
• Strong, tightly-plied, fine or medium weight wool yarn for warp, 2 or 3 ply, any color
• Wool yarn for weft, singles or 2 ply, slightly heavier than warp, in several colors
• Shuttle
• Fork
• Warping board

Instructions

Preparing the Loom

1. Wind a warp four yards long with 90 ends. The warp consists of the lengthwise threads in the weaving. A four yard warp will make three bags 9 inches wide and 12 inches deep; each bag piece will be 24 inches long.

2. Make a figure-eight cross at one end of the warp. Tie off the cross and tie the warp at one yard intervals. Take the warp off the warping board and bring it to the loom.

3. Pre-sley the warp in a ten dent reed by pulling two loops through a dent in the reed every fourth dent. Your final sett will be 10 warp ends per inch. Put the reed in the beater and wind it onto the back beam. Cut the end of the warp in front of the reed. Take the reed and the beater off the loom.

4. Thread the loom to a straight draw: thread the first warp end through a heddle (eyed holder on the harness) on the fourth harness. Then thread the second warp end through a heddle on the third harness, back to front. Continue in the same manner with the second and first harness. Repeat this threading pattern across the warp.

5. Put the reed and beater back on the loom and sley the reed to 10 ends per inch. Tie the warp ends to the front apron rod. Tighten the tension on the warp.

Weaving the Stripes and Tapestry Diamonds

1. Wind the first color of weft yarn onto a bobbin or a stick shuttle. Weave an inch or so of this color, and then change to another color, making stripes of different colors and widths. If you intend for the bag to be the same on both sides, make a note of the colors and widths of the stripes on a piece of paper. After eight inches of weaving stripes and solid areas, you will insert the tapestry diamond shapes.

2. Make a butterfly for each diamond shape by wrapping the weft yarn in a figure eight around your pinkie finger and thumb. The diamond shapes will be 1 1/2 inch wide, with some space between each one, covering 15 warp threads. The first row of diamonds will have four.

3. Find the center of the warp and count three warp ends over; this is the edge of the first diamond. Count eight threads over from the edge and begin laying in the weft here. Raise the shed and place the weft under two warps and over one, going from right to left. Leave a long tail hanging underneath, to be darned in later. Change the shed and beat with the fork.

4. Take the butterfly back to the right in the shed, this time going two warp threads to the right, under one and over one. Change the shed and beat. Take the butterfly back to the left, bringing it out two warp threads further to the left. Continue in this manner until the lozenge is 15 warp threads wide, or about an inch and a half.

5. Begin making the diamond smaller by two threads on each pick. Beat down after each pick, using the fork if necessary to beat the diagonal edges of the lozenge. Finish the diamond by breaking off the end of the weft and laying it in the shed alongside the diagonal end of the lozenge. Make three more diamonds the same way, evenly spaced across the warp.

Finishing the Bag

1. Continue weaving in plain weave after you finish setting in the tapestry diamonds. The weft will appear somewhat wavy because of the diamonds, but you can use the fork to beat it in the low parts. When the woven piece is 12 inches long, you have reached the bottom of the bag. You can weave the remainder of the bag in a mirror image of the first part, or just continue improvising stripes and tapestry diamonds.

2. Weave the first bag until it is 24 inches long. Insert 6 to 8 inches of rag weft, and then start another bag and weave it in the same manner. When all three bags are woven, cut the weaving off the loom. Cut the pieces apart and pull out the rag weft. Knot the fringe close to the weaving.

3. Trim the fringe to one inch on the ends of the bags, and turn the hem under so the fringe is completely covered. Sew the hem down with extra warp thread. Fold the bag in half and sew up the sides. Make a warp-faced strap for the bag and sew it on, two inches down from the top of the bag on each side.

Tips & Warnings

• You can make the strap for the bag on an inkle loom or on a Hopi belt loom. This bag could also be woven on a backstrap loom.

• Test the warp yarn before winding the warp by pulling it between your two hands. It must be strong enough to not break. If it is too weak, you can re-spin it tighter.

References

• "The Weaving, Spinning, and Dyeing Book"; Rachel Brown; 1983