How to Do Invisible Machine Applique

Appliques are commonly used to make Christmas stockings.

Invisible machine applique is the process of sewing fabric templates to a background using machine stitches that are invisible to the eye. Applique is usually done by hand so that the stitches can be small and positioned in discreet areas. This machine technique reduces the amount of time needed to complete the applique process and presents a finished product appearance that is difficult to discern from hand stitched applique. Invisible machine applique techniques require a few tools that would not commonly be used for hand applique.

Things You'll Need

• Access to a washing machine and dryer
• Laundry detergent
• Cellulose-based transfer paper, such as Rinse-Away Paper
• Pencil
• Scissors
• Elmer's washable glue stick
• Elmer's washable school glue
• Sewing machine
• Open-toe applique foot
• Straight-stitch throat plate
• Iron
• Freezer paper
• 50 weight 100% cotton thread
• .004 sized monofilament nylon thread
• Fabric for project and applique

Instructions

1. Preshrink your fabric. First, wash all of the fabric in a washing machine. Then, remove it after the wash cycle is completed, and dry it in a dryer on a high-heat setting

2. Trace all of the applique pieces onto the transfer paper with a pencil. Make sure to trace the front of the applique. If applique pieces will intersect, choose which piece will be on top and which piece will be on the bottom. Mark the bottom intersecting areas with a dashed line. Cut out all of the templates on the transfer paper.

3. Cover the top of the transfer paper templates with the glue stick. Lay the applique pieces over the corresponding paper templates. Lay the paper templates and attached applique piece flat on an ironing board with the applique piece face down. Cover the transfer paper with freezer paper.

4. Set the iron on the cotton setting without steam. Press the iron down and pull it up until the glue on all of the pieces has been dried and the bonded appliques and paper templates are firm.

5. Trim the edges of the paper template between 1/8 and 1/4 inch, keeping the edge a consistent shape. Apply the glue stick to the edge of the paper template. Fold the fabric of the applique snugly over against the edge of the paper template. Use the pads of your fingers to smooth any bubbles or folds.

6. Repeat Step 4 to dry the glue holding the edges of the applique down.

7. Squeeze a thin layer of school glue on the the folded edge of the applique. Turn the applique so it is fabric-side up, and position it on the fabric background to which you want the applique sewn.

8. Repeat Step 6 with the background fabric and applique to dry the glue.

9. Adjust your sewing machine to the zigzag stitch setting. Adjust the length of the stitch to 1.0 wide and 1.0 long.

10. Pull the tab on the edge of the stitch plate and remove the plate. Place the straight-stitch throat plate into the opening, and release the tab to hold the new plate in place.

11. Thread the bobbin with the cotton thread. Thread the needle with the monofilament thread.

12. Stitch along the edges of each applique, making sure that the stitches are as close to the edge of the applique as possible. Cut the excess thread.

13. Wash the completed project to dissolve the glue and transfer paper. Remove the project from the washer, and dry it in the dryer on a high-heat setting.

Tips & Warnings

• Use the hand-stitch function on your sewing machine instead of the foot pedal. The decreased sewing speed will help you improve your stitch position.

References

• Generations Quilt Patterns; How to Applique?
• Soft Expressions; Invisible Machine Applique, Quilt Binding, Cathedral Windows & the Adjustable Zipper Foot
• Sentimental Stitches; Machine Applique
• Connecting Threads; Invisible Machine Applique Stitch