How to Weave 2-Ply Wool

Two-ply wool is a good choice for many types of garments and blankets.

Two-ply wool is an ideal warp and weft choice for a beginning weaver. It has a springy resilience and strength that make it easy to wind onto the loom with an even tension, yet it rarely breaks, especially if it is worsted spun. It is a versatile yarn for garments and blankets, and it makes an ideal pattern weft for overshot. It is widely available in many colors. Not all two-ply wool is the same grist or size, so it is important to check its diameter and figure your sett accordingly.

Things You'll Need

• Two-ply wool yarn
• Loom
• Warping board
• Shuttle
• Scissors

Instructions

1. Wrap the two-ply wool around a ruler, packing it tightly together. Count the number of wraps per inch. If, for example, the number of wraps per inch is 24, your tabby (or plain weave) sett will be 12 ends per inch. The sett is the number of warp ends in each inch of the woven fabric's width. The twill sett will be closer, perhaps 15 to 18 ends per inch.

2. Multiply the number of ends per inch in your sett by the wanted width of your cloth. Add about 15 percent to your wanted width for shrinkage and draw-in. Wind that number of ends on your warping board. Make a cross at one end of the warp and tie it off. Bring the warp to the loom.

3. Pre-sley the reed and wind the warp onto the back beam of the loom. Cut the warp in front of the reed and remove the reed and the beater. Thread the loom to your desired pattern. Then put the reed and beater back on the loom and sley the reed to the desired sett. Tie the front end of the warp to the apron rods and tighten the tension on the warp.

4. Open the first shed and insert a pick of rag weft. Open the next shed and do the same. Weave several picks of rag weft until the warp threads come together. Wind a bobbin with the intended weft yarn. Weave with this weft yarn, using a temple or stretcher to keep your edges even. Advance the loom when necessary by rolling the finished cloth onto the cloth beam in front. Weave until you reach the end of the warp.

5. Cut the warp off the loom behind the heddles. Unwind the cloth from the cloth beam and cut it from the apron rod. Tie a knot in the fringe close to the fell of the cloth at both ends of the warp. Wash the cloth in warm water on a gentle cycle in order to full it slightly. Dry it on the delicate cycle in the dryer. Your fabric will shrink and bloom beautifully. Fulling it in this way makes the fabric warmer, more durable, and more beautiful.

Tips & Warnings

• Most two-ply wool for weaving is rather fine, but since two-ply wool can be any thickness, be sure to count the ends per inch before deciding on a sett. It's always a good idea to make a small sample before putting on a long, wide warp.

• Sock yarns, or fingering weight knitting yarns with some nylon in them, often make very good weaving yarns as well.

• Worsted spun two-ply wool makes a better, stronger warp than a woolen spun two-ply, which can break under tension.

References

• "The Weaving, Spinning, and Dyeing Book"; Rachel Brown; 1983
• "Handbook of Timesaving Tables for Weavers, Spinners, and Dyers"; Roth and Schulz; 1991