How to Make a French Hem
French hems, or seams, are a clever sewing trick for concealing easily frayed and unsightly edges throughout your sewn garments. The edges are self-contained tubes by sewing the seams in a specific pattern. You can utilize this technique for any thin, lightweight fabrics where you want a clean and flawless appearance. Additionally, use French hems to create a reversible garment by hiding exposed edges, once you are familiar with the process. With some care and patience, you can master the French hem and elevate your ordinary sewing projects into professional works of art.
Instructions
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1
Place your two pieces of fabric on top of each other so the edges are lined up. The wrong sides of the fabric should be facing each other, so the patterned or right side of each piece should be facing outward.
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2
Sew a straight stitch through both layers of fabric using a sewing machine. Make the seam 1/4-inch wide to allow for trimming the fabric edges after sewing.
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3
Cut off the excess fabric next to the stitching, leaving only 1/8 inch remaining. Spread the fabric out so the sewn edges are on top and the wrong sides of the fabric are facing down.
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4
Press the sewn edges flat using an iron so the edges fall either to the right or the left. It doesn't matter which side the edges fall onto, as long as the fabric is smooth and the seam is unobscured.
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5
Fold the fabric over along the pressed seam so the right sides are now facing each other and the raw edges are contained within the folded fabric. Press the folded edge again with the iron to make a crisp, clean line along the seam. You will be unable to see the stitching since it is contained inside the folded fabric.
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Sew a seam along the folded edge of the fabric with the sewing machine. This seam should be 3/8 to 5/8 inch wide to fully envelope the raw edges inside.
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7
Open the garment again so the right side is facing down and the wrong side plus encased edges are facing up. Press the encased flap down to one side so it is flat and smooth. The flap will be invisible from the right side once you have finished ironing it down.
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Tips & Warnings
Practice your French hems on scraps of lightweight fabric before attempting one on a full garment. Thin fabric damages easily, so it is better to practice and possiblly ruin a scrap before handling an entire piece.
Do not use French hems on thick knits or heavy-duty fabrics, as the seams will give a bulky and unflattering appearance.
References
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