How to Sew a French Seam for Dressmaking

For those without a serger, French seams are an easy way to finish edges.

Sewing your own dresses allows you to fully customize your outfits. The material, measurements, style, and even choice of seams are up to the dressmaker. French seams are popular and easy to sew. They are commonly used with delicate fabrics but work with any lightweight fabric. A French seam conceals the raw edge of the material, which gives the dress a professional finish.

Things You'll Need

• 2 pieces of fabric
• Straight pins
• Sewing machine
• Thread
• Scissors
• Ruler
• Pencil
• Iron

Instructions

1. Place the two fabric pieces with wrong sides together and right sides facing out. Line up the edges that are being joined, and secure with straight pins.

2. Place the pinned side of the fabric on the sewing machine. Use a 3/8-inch seam allowance and a straight stitch to join the fabric pieces. Remove the straight pins as they near needle. When you reach the end of the fabric pieces, cut the thread, and remove from the machine.

3. Place a ruler across the top of the fabric, and use the pencil to mark the seam allowance at 1/8 inch from the seam. Place the ruler across the middle of the fabric, and make another mark 1/8 inch from the seam. Use the 1/8-inch marks as a guide, and trim the seam allowance to 1/8 inch.

4. Unfold the joined fabric, with the right sides facing up. Use the iron to press the seam allowance to one side. Do not iron the seam open.

5. Close the two pieces of fabric like a book so that the right sides are together and the wrong sides are facing out. You will not see the seam. Use the iron to press the joined edge.

6. Place the joined side of the fabric through the sewing machine. Use a 1/4-inch seam allowance and a straight stitch to finish the seam. When you reach the end of the fabric pieces, cut the thread, and remove from the machine. You now have a completed French seam.

Tips & Warnings

• Check the fabric type before ironing to ensure you use a heat setting that will not damage it.

References

• Sew Neau: "How to Make French Seams"
• Burda Style: "How to: Sew French and Flat Felled Seams"

Resources

• Stardust Shows: "Sewing 101 - The French Seam"
• Sew to Speak: "How to - Sew a French Seam"; Oct. 30, 2009