How to Cut a Graduated, Layered Bob

Sharp shears make any haircut easier.

Of all the different ways to represent your unique sense of style, perhaps none is more fundamental than your hairstyle. From mohawks to "the Rachel" and everything in between, the way you wear your hair can make an impression before you even interact with someone. One of the more versatile haircuts is the graduated, layered bob. It is neat enough to be worn in a professional environment but contemporary enough for casual environments as well.

Things You'll Need

• Shears
• Comb
• Spray water bottle

Instructions

1. Make a center parting from the top of the crown down to the nape.

2. Make a curved section that reaches across the occipital bone at the back of the head. Make sections and cutting lines clean.

3. Tilt head in a slightly forward position. Beginning at the nape, hold the hair at a 45-degree angle and out from the head to cut. This section will determine the overall length of the haircut. Continue to cut the hair on both sides of the head and up to the parting made at the occipital area.

4. Take diagonal sections working from the top of the occipital part and down to the top of the ear. Complete one side at a time. Continue to cut at a 45-degree angle with hair pulled out away from the head.

5. Lift the guide hair away from the head below a 90-degree angle. Use the same angle on the other side of the head. This will achieve graduation.

6. Repeat the graduation method on the forward sections progressing to the top of the head to the hair's natural parting. At this time, the head should be in an upright natural position. The hair is now being cut at a 45-degree angle throughout the rest of the cut. Use minimal tension to allow for irregular hair growth patterns.

7. Take horseshoe-shaped sections of hair from below the crown to the front hairline. Pivot the hair diagonally toward the front. As the hair gets blended into the side, direct the hair back away from the face. This will build up the length. Make sure the hair is elevated to a 45-degree angle held between the fingers with one finger width.

8. Take guide hair from the occipital area and work forward, creating length at the front.

9. Start with the length at the front of the hair and workup to the natural parting. Repeat on both sides using minimal tension.

10. Cut fringe on the sides if desired. Take a section of hair from the outside corner of the eye to the front center of the head. Make your cut from the outside toward the center. Repeat on the other side. Continue working up to the top of the natural part to finish the haircut.

Tips & Warnings

• Keep yourself positioned in line with the sections to achieve even weight distribution during the cut.

• Keep fingers angled when cutting the top section of the cut while determining front length.

• Cross-check cuts throughout the haircut. If cutting vertically, check horizontally and vice versa.

• Keep hair wet throughout the entire cut as hair will shrink when dry.

References

• Hairdressing Training: The Graduated Bob
• Hairdressing Training: The Graduated Bob

Resources

• Read this Article in Spanish