How to Hand Sew on a Zipper

Hand sew zippers using the prick stitch.

Install zippers using hand sewing techniques when working with delicate fabrics or custom items. Hand stitches allow you to have greater control over how the zipper is attached and the firmness of the seams. It is also easier to position the fabric so it completely hides the zipper. Hand stitches are just as strong as machine stitches. Use a basting stitch to hold the fabric seam together, then attach the zipper using a prick stitch.

Things You'll Need

• Fabric measuring tape
• Zipper
• Straight pins
• Needle
• Thread
• Iron
• Seam ripper

Instructions

1. Measure the length of the opening of the garment or item where the zipper is to be placed with a fabric measuring tape. Purchase a zipper in the correct length from a local craft or fabric store. Match the color of the zipper to the color of the garment.

2. Match the right sides of the opening together and pin closed with straight pins. Sew a basting stitch along the opening, 5/8-inch from the edges with a needle and thread. Create the basting stitch by sewing long, loose straight stitches down the length of the opening. Do not tie any knots when sewing a basting stitch.

3. Press the seam open with a warm iron. Smooth out any wrinkles and make sure the two sides of the seam are completely flat.

4. Lay the fabric on a flat surface with the right side facing down and the press seam facing upwards. Lay the closed zipper on top of the seam, right side facing down. Position the center of the zipper over the center of the seam where the two sides meet. Match the top and bottom of the zipper to the top and bottom of the seam as exactly as possible. Pin both sides of the zipper in place with straight pins.

5. Thread your needle with thread that matches the color of the fabric. Tie a knot in the end of the thread and stick your needle through the back of the zipper in the top right side. Pull the needle and thread through until the knot hits the backside of the zipper.

6. Insert the needle through the zipper and fabric and pull it completely through the right side of the fabric. Flip the fabric over so the right side is facing upwards.

7. Sew down the length of the right side of the zipper using a prick stitch. Insert the needle a few fabric threads behind and slightly to the right of the point where the thread is protruding from the fabric. Push the needle through the zipper and back up through the zipper and fabric a short distance ahead of where the thread is protruding from the fabric. Pull the needle and thread completely through to form the stitch. Continue to sew in this manner until you reach the end of the zipper.

8. Push the needle through the fabric and zipper and pull it completely through to the back side. Tie a knot in the thread to secure the stitches and clip the thread.

9. Repeat steps 5 through 8 on the left hand side of the zipper. Use a seam ripper to remove the basting stitch from the seam. Clip and pull out any loose threads. Check to ensure that the zipper opens and closes properly.

References

• University of Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service; Hand Zipper Application:
• Crochet N' Crafts; How to Make a Prick Stitch
• Fiber Images; Hand Sewing Stitches