How to Make a Smocked Top

The technique of smocking has been used for over seven centuries.

Smocking involves sewing a wide strip of fabric into many small pleats. This technique creates an intricate pattern on an article of clothing or other fabric item. A smocked piece of clothing has a fitted appearance that is difficult to achieve using other methods. Although smocked clothing is popularly worn today, it has been worn for many centuries. According to smocking.org, the sewing technique of smocking was first created in England during the 13th or 14th centuries.

Things You'll Need

• Jersey or other lightweight fabric
• Matching cotton thread
• Matching elastic thread
• Sewing machine
• Measuring tape
• Sewing pins
• Scissors

Instructions

1. Measure the desired length for your top by holding the measuring tape at your shoulder and allowing the length to fall down your body. Read the measurement at your preferred length. To this measurement, add 1 1/2-inches, in order to allow for hemming. Write this number down for your reference.

2. Determine your usual shirt size in order to decide the proper width at which to cut your fabric. If you ordinarily wear a ladies' size extra small, the width should be 21 1/2 inches. If you wear a size small, the width should be 22 1/2 inches. If you wear a medium, the width should be 23 1/2 inches, and if your shirt size is a large, the width should be cut to 25 inches. Write your width measurement down for reference.

3. Stretch your fabric out on the floor and flatten out any wrinkles. Measure and mark a rectangle that has a length measurement equal to the number written down in Step 1 and a width measurement equal to the number written down in Step 2. Cut this rectangle out of the fabric. Repeat this step to cut out another rectangle of the same size.

4. Lay the two rectangles of fabric on the ground, "good" sides together. Pin the two sides of the top together, and sew a seam across the pins using your matching cotton thread. You will have just created a tube of fabric.

5. Fold the bottom edge of the tube of fabric about 1 inch onto itself, wrong sides together. Pin your folded edges, and sew a seam along the pins. You have just completed the bottom hem of the shirt.

6. Fold the top edge of the tube down onto itself, wrong sides together, about 1 inch. Pin this hem together. Replace your cotton thread with elastic, and sew a seam along the pins. You have just finished the top hem of the shirt.

7. Sew a second row of elastic stitches, about 1/2 inch below the top hem of the shirt. Use your top hem as a guide. Continue sewing additional rows of stitches at 1/2 inch intervals, until you have created smocking of the desired height for your shirt.

Tips & Warnings

• Sewing with elastic thread is slightly different than sewing with traditional thread. To avoid damaging your top, practice sewing with your elastic thread on a scrap piece of fabric.

References

• Smocking: History of Smocking
• Altered Cloth: How To Make a Smocked Tube Top