How to Make a Buck Stitch

Leather lacing is used to create the buck stitch.

Buck stitch is a common leather stitch used with flat lacing. This style of lacing creates a regular, even pattern of linear stitching. The individual stitch often has a slightly diamond shape as the ends twist down into the leather item being stitched and the center of the stitch flattens out. This creates an artistic appearance and some mystery regarding how the stitch is made. In a few short steps you can create your own buck-stitched leather and unveil the mystery for yourself.

Things You'll Need

• Wing divider
• Lacing chisel
• Multi-prong lacing chisel
• Wooden mallet
• Rubber mat

Instructions

1. Set a wing divider to the width you want your stitch away from the seam or side edge of your piece. Drag the divider along the leather to mark a line on the leather. Place the leather pieces over a rubber cutting mat.

2. Position a single lacing chisel in the size of the stitch you are making, the divider marking distance away from your corner. Drive the chisel through the leather (one or two pieces) to make a precision slice.

3. Insert one end of a multi-prong lacing chisel into the slice of the first cut. Align the chisel straight with the leather surface and drive the prongs through the leather using a wooden mallet. Move the prongs away from the cut area. Slide the last prong into the last slice. Level the chisel. Align the prongs with the divider lines. Drive the prongs through the leather using a wooden mallet. Repeat across the piece until all lacing openings are cut.

4. Place leather lacing 1/4-inch wide or wider on a lacing needle. Bring the lacing down between your leather pieces and out a slice on the back side of the piece and pull until 1/2 inch of lacing shows above the seam. Start your lacing mid-way along one side of the piece. Your first whole stitch will go to the left or backward of your remaining stitches in order to lock your first stitch and lacing to the piece.

5. Bring your needle to the lacing cut behind where you brought your needle through. Go through both pieces of leather at the cut. Keep the lace untwisted and flat to the leather. Pull snug. Keep the lace on the face side of the leather, finished side out. Bring your needle to the right through the next cut on the top leather and under the lace tail on the back leather. Keep the lace untwisted and flat to the leather. Pull the lacing snug.

6. Bring the needle to the right through the next stitch cut from back to front. Keep the lacing untwisted so that the finish side is outward. Pull the stitch snug. Take the needle to the right through the next stitch cut from front to back. Keep the lacing untwisted so that the finish side is outward. Pull the stitch snug. Continue across the piece.

7. Take your last stitch from front to back through the front leather. Thread the needle over the top of the last stitch through the back leather on the left. Bring the needle back in between the leather pieces and pull the stitch snug. Trim off the excess leather and tuck the ends between the leather.

Tips & Warnings

• Use the same backward stitch technique to lock in additional lacing if your first lace isn't long enough for the entire lacing project.

References

• Kingsmere Crafts: Preparing to Position Your Lacing Slits