How to Sew an Understitch

Under stitching will help a garment look better when finished.

Under stitching, or "stitch in a ditch," is a sewing method used to keep the facing from rolling into the outside of the garment or piece you are sewing. This method helps support the garment and provides a better drape. Many people omit the under stitch, but it is an extra step that helps the finished piece look better. Under stitching is an easy method and it only takes a few extra minutes.

Things You'll Need

• Sewing machine
• Thread

Instructions

1. Trim the seam allowances as short as possible, but not less than 1/2 inch. If the piece is curved, make straight cuttings towards the seam every 1/4 inch. Be careful to not cut the stitches.

2. Fold the seam allowance towards the facing of the garment. Press until the seam allowance stays in place. Roll the seam line to the inside of the garment.

3. Place the facing, with the seam allowance underneath, under the sewing machine. Place the top of the garment under the sewing machine and let the rest fall on your legs or the table. Begin to sew slowly. Reposition the seam allowance as needed to keep it flat under the facing. Stitch as close to the edge as possible until you have completely sewed the piece.

Tips & Warnings

• Use thread that is the same color as the facing to make the stitch less noticeable.

• Use caution when using a sewing machine.

References

• Threads: Tips and Tricks
• Dicey Home: Facings and Under Stitching Lesson