How to Keep a Starfish Alive

Most starfish illnesses and deaths are attributed to improper and careless transport.

Starfish, also called sea stars, come in a variety of colors, species and sizes. They have multiple limbs, used for locomotion. They roam over the sandy or muddy sentiments of the sea floor in search of small particles of decaying organic matter. Typically slow, with meager reflexes and grasping appendages, they rely on opportunity and chance encounters to sustain themselves. Coveted by serious collectors, starfish can be a challenge to maintain and keep in a healthy condition, due to their fragile nature. Care may vary by species, too, so investing in a handbook dedicated to your particular type of starfish is also a crucial step.

Things You'll Need

• Starfish handbook
• pH test kit
• Skimmer
• Pump
• Filter
• Cover light
• Thermometer
• Heater
• Meal food

Instructions

1. Ensure that the starfish has been acclimated to the dealer tank for at least five days, if this is an initial purchase. Ask the pet shop proprietor about the delivery date of the starfish. Ask to inspect it before purchase. Look for deterioration on the leg tips, which should appear sharp or slightly rounded. The colors on the outside carapace should be clear and vibrant, with no bleached-out areas, splotches or other abnormal discoloration. The underside of the starfish should have a healthy color, with no bare areas to the tube feet, or obvious cuts.

2. Provide the correct size aquarium tank for your starfish. Use a tank of at least 30 gallons for small to medium-small species, limiting the number of starfish in each tank to one or two. Consult your starfish handbook for the specific requirements for your species and its size. The blue Linkia starfish, for example, requires at least a 100-gallon tank for just one individual. Determine how many other species will inhabit the tank, including algae, sea snails, crabs and swimming fish. Do not overcrowd the tank, and buy up in gallon volume to ensure enough free movement for all creatures.

3. Check that you have all of the proper working components for your saltwater ecosystem. Provide a lighted tank cover, which serves as a light source for the fish and keeps dust and airborne particles out of the tank water. Use a skimmer to screen the water for any free-floating debris, such as food particles or detached plants. Make sure the pump works to full capacity and that the filter is clean, with no obstructions. Provide live saltwater plants and natural rock coral, for decor and cover for small fish species. Arrange a small pathway large enough for the starfish to move through, where it can make direct contact with the sand or gravel bottom.

4. Perform a salinity test on the tank water using a pH kit. Follow the kit directions to perform the test, doing your calculations based on precisely how many gallons are in the tank, as opposed to the tank's maximum rating. Keep the salinity range from 1.020 to 1.026.

5. Install a thermometer in the tank and check it daily for temperature fluctuations. The optimal temperature range for starfish is 72 to 78 degrees Fahrenheit. Use an aquarium heater with a thermostat control to keep the water temperature within the safe zone. To cool the water, remove the cover light and add a few ice cubes.

6. Purchase the correct meal food for your specific starfish species. Most meaty meal food for starfish comes frozen, and consists of shrimp, squid and muscles. Thaw the food completely and place it on the bottom of the tank directly in line with the starfish's routine path of movement. You can also lift the starfish and place the food underneath it, so it makes instant contact. Do not overfeed; adhere to the directions in your starfish manual -- usually once a day or several times per week. Remember that starfish are opportunistic feeders and will complement their diet by eating bits of decayed flotsam, live coral and algae.

7. Know which aggressive species are harmful to starfish and keep them out of the tank. Harmful species would include puffer fish and a large variety of hermit crabs. The large hermit crab, Dardanus megistos, for example, has enough strength to break open the shells of invertebrates and consume the soft tissue.

8. Quarantine the starfish in a separate tank upon discovering any injuries to its body, including tears, gouges or discoloration, or upon observing lethargic behavior, lack of appetite or any other symptoms of illness. Set up the quarantine tank according to the proper living conditions for the starfish; keep it regularly fed and keep the temperature and salinity in the safe zone. While the starfish is recovering, clean the main tank, especially if you suspect a bacterial propagation or contaminated water.

Tips & Warnings

• Do not expose your starfish to air for prolonged periods. Starfish cell membranes are very sensitive to dehydration and vascular damage.

• Properly acclimate your starfish to a new tank, following the directions in your handbook. The best approach usually involves "drip acclimation," which can take over two hours to accomplish.

References

• Petco: Starfish Care Sheet
• Arizona Fishkeeping: Chocolate Chip Starfish Care
• Reefkeeping; Starfish: Considerations for the Common (and Commonly Misunderstood) Varieties; Anthony Calfo