How to Sew a Hidden Zipper
A hidden zipper, also commonly known as an invisible zipper, is frequently used in both clothing and upholstery sewing. It is used to create an opening in a seam that cannot be seen when the zipper is closed. A presser foot specially made for invisible zippers must be used on your sewing machine to properly install an invisible zipper. One of these presser feet can be purchased from any fabric store if you don't already have one.
Instructions
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1
Press the zipper with an iron set on the synthetic fabric setting. This will remove any kinks or folds that developed while the zipper was in its packaging, making it easier to lay flat and sew.
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2
Replace the normal presser foot on your sewing machine with the special invisible zipper foot. Be sure that the needle lines up with the hole in the foot; if it doesn't, the needle will hit the foot and break when you try to sew.
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3
Unzip the zipper and place it face down on the right side of the fabric, to the right of the seam opening. The teeth of the zipper should be on the seam line. For example, if the item you're sewing has 5/8-inch seam allowances, the teeth must be 5/8-inch from the raw edge of the fabric. Use straight pins to hold the zipper in place.
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4
Place the fabric and zipper on the sewing machine and lower the presser foot so that the groove at the right side of the foot is over the zipper teeth. Carefully stitch down the length of the zipper, removing pins as you go, until you reach the zipper's slider at the bottom. Lift the presser foot and clip the ends of the thread.
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Pin the other half of the zipper face down to the opposite half of the seam, once again keeping the zipper teeth 5/8-inch from the edge of the fabric. Place the fabric and zipper back on the machine and slide the presser foot to the right so that the groove on the left side of the foot is now covering the zipper teeth. Stitch all the way down to the slider.
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Close the zipper, then fold the seam so that the right sides of the fabric are facing together. Fold the end of the zipper out of the way so that it won't be sewn into the seam, then pin the seam together below the bottom of the zipper. Use your machine's hand wheel to carefully lower the needle into the fabric as close as possible to the last stitch, then sew two inches down the seam.
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Put the regular presser foot back onto the machine and use it to continue sewing the rest of the seam as usual.
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Tips & Warnings
If you cannot find an invisible zipper in the exact length that you need, you can purchase a longer one and cut it down to size.
Backstitch three to four stitches at the beginning and end of each seam so that your stitch lines won't unravel.
References
- Photo Credit Comstock/Comstock/Getty Images
