How to Make a Kabuki Kanjincho Costume
"Kanjincho" is one of the most popular modern Kabuki plays. It is based on the Noh drama "Ataka" and the title, "Kanjincho," may be translated as "The Subsctiption List." This list refers to a list of people who have donated to two priests who appear in the play seeking additional donations. The list in the play, however, is actually a blank scroll one of the priests dictates from in an effort to deceive Togashi, the guard at a gate through which the priests wish to pass. Kabuki costumes resemble the traditional clothing worn during the time period of the play and use costume designs or details to denote characters' social status or other impressions.
Things You'll Need
- Samurai costume pattern (hakama, haori or kimono and kataginu)
- Brocade
- Stiff fusible interfacing
- Scissors
- Iron
- Sewing machine
- White tabi socks
- Facepaint or makeup (optional)
Instructions
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Construct Your Costume
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1
Follow the instructions in the sewing pattern to make the hakama, kimono and kataginu. The costumes for stage are typically quite stiff, giving the characters a significant shape. To achieve this, we will use stiff interfacing.
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2
Cut out the (paper) pattern pieces and organize them with each garment. The hakama pieces will go with a lighter color brocade. The kimono or haori pieces may be made of a patterned or darker color brocade and the kataginu, a vest-like top, should be dark as well.
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3
Lay a piece of brocade out on a clean, flat surface and pin the desired pattern pieces to it; start with the lightest brocade and the hakama pattern pieces. Carefully cut out the pattern from the brocade, leaving a half-inch seam allowance if the pattern does not include seam allowance. Repeat with the other brocade pieces for kimono and kataginu.
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4
Iron stiff interfacing to the back of the hakama pieces. The pleats in the front and back of the hakama will be made when sewing and will help produce stiff hakama pants for the costume. Sew according to the pattern instructions, using the iron to form the pleats. If the pleats present difficulty, pin them in place as you iron them flat; remove the pins after sewing.
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5
Sew the kimono or haori following the pattern instructions. This portion of the top may be sewn regularly, without the addition interfacing; other than the interfacing used in the collar.
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6
Iron stiff interfacing to the back of the kataginu pieces then sew together, following the kataginu pattern instructions. When the instructions describe forming the pleats in the kataginu, used the iron to carefully press each pleat, forming a stiff vest-like top. If necessary, pin the pleats to hold in place while sewing.
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Tips & Warnings
For different characters, review the scenes of "Kanjincho" and adjust the brocade colors accordingly. For the makeup, use white to lighten the entire face, black to line the eyes and define the eyebrows and red to define the mouth.
References
Resources
- Photo Credit Photos.com/Photos.com/Getty Images
