How to Sew a Traditional Yukata

A traditional Japanese yukata worn with an obi around the waist.

A yukata is a loose-fitting Japanese garment worn by men or women. It is made out of different sized rectangles. Measurements are not exact: the yukata is fitted to the person with tucks at the shoulders, smaller or larger seams and by the amount bloused with a sash or obi. These instructions are for an average-sized adult yukata made from the wider fabric (44 to 45 inches wide) that is sold in the Western Hemisphere.

Things You'll Need

• 4 1/4 yards of cotton fabric
• Thread
• Tape measure
• Fabric scissors
• Sewing machine

Instructions

Measuring and Cutting the Fabric

1. 

   A tape measure is the best measuring tool for this project.

   Measure the wearer's chest or belly, whichever is larger. This is called the girth measurement.

   Measure from the wearer's chest to their ankle, and from their shoulder to their ankle. Keep these measurements handy.

2. 

   Japanese fabric.

   Multiply the shoulder-to-ankle measurement by two and add six inches for hems for the length of the body piece. Divide the girth measurement by two and add five inches for seams and ease for the width of the body piece. (This main body piece will go from the ankle in front, over the shoulders, and down to the ankle in back.) Cut a rectangular piece of fabric using these length and width measurements.

3. Add three inches to the chest-to-ankle measurement for the extensions. Cut two rectangular pieces of fabric with that measurement for the length and seven inches wide.

4. Cut two rectangular sleeves, 30 inches by 14 inches. Cut one neckband 64 inches by ten inches. Cut one sash 60 inches by 72 inches.

Assembling the Yukata

1. Fold the body piece in half lengthwise and press a crease to mark the center front and back. Fold the body piece in half crosswise and press a crease to mark the shoulder line. Measure four inches to either side of the intersection of these creases on the shoulder line and cut along the crease (eight inches total). Cut along the center front crease all the way down the center front.

2. Sew the extensions lengthwise to the front edges with right sides together and bottom edges even. Make a narrow hem on the remaining long edges of each extension.

3. Trim the back neck opening gradually to one inch at the center back crease. Fold the neckband rectangle in half lengthwise with the right sides together. Stitch across the ends and turn right side out. Pin the raw edges of the neckband piece to the neck edge of the body piece, matching the centers. Curve the ends of the neckband around to the front to meet the front edges of the extensions and sew. Trim the front to match the raw edges of the neckband piece. Fold the neckband piece in half lengthwise and sew by hand over the neck seam.

4. Fold the sleeve rectangles in half crosswise and press to mark the center. Match the center of the sleeves to the shoulder lines of the body piece with right sides together and sew.

5. Sew the under arm and side body seams. Hem the sleeves with a narrow hem and the bottom of the yukata with a three-inch hem. Fold the sash in half lengthwise and sew the long edge and one short edge. Turn the sash right side out and slip stitch the short opening closed.

Tips & Warnings

• To make the yukata smaller, take larger seams or sew tucks at the shoulders.

• To make the yukata shorter, pull some of the yukata to the top, blouson-style, using the sash or the obi.

References

• Yukata: Cotton Summer Kimono; Eastwind Art; 1997

Resources

• Japanese Lifestyle: Yukata