How to Sew a Notched Lapel Collar

Cut out the collar pieces carefully, especially the notches, to ensure proper alignment.

Sewing would be true bliss if all we had to do was stitch straight seams. Alas, sometimes high style comes at a cost. If you are facing the prospect of sewing a lapel collar, you will have to stitch on a curve. But taking your time and following the line guides on your sewing machine and some sensible tips is better than being thrown for a curve -- and ending up with a lopsided collar.

Things You'll Need

• Fabric pieces for collar
• Fusible interfacing
• Iron
• Straight pins
• Point turner

Instructions

1. Staystitch the uppercollar neck seam. (Staystitching is longer than a "standard" stitch -- it usually takes between 12 and 15 stitches per inch -- and protects the grain of fabric while it is being constructed.) With a standard 5/8-inch seam allowance, staystitch a seam 1/2 inch from the edge. Clip the collar seam allowance to the staystitching at the shoulder marks.

2. Fuse the interfacing to the undercollar and front facings, following the manufacturer's directions on the interfacing package. Most fusible interfacing will require you to place the "shiny" side of the interfacing against the right ride of the fabric. Apply heat, via an iron, which fuses the pieces together, before turning the fabric inside out.

3. Stitch the shoulder seams. Staystitch the neck edge. Clip the seam allowances at the notch points or at 1-inch intervals. Stop cutting before the line of staystitching.

4. Stitch the under and uppercollars. Turn the pieces right side out and press.

5. Pin the under and uppercollars to the garment to the front neck edge.

6. Fold the front facing over the collar. Pin through all of the layers. Stitch the neckline seam with a 5/8-inch seam allowance. Turn the facings right side out.

7. 

   Edgestitching will give your collar a finished look.

   Bring the folded edge of the uppercollar over the neck seam. Edgestitch -- or machine-stitch close to the collar edge -- into place. With a needle and thread, slipstitch -- or hand sew -- the facings to the shoulder seam allowances.

Tips & Warnings

• Before turning the facings and collars inside out, trim the corners, close to the stitching, then at an angle to the seam. Grade the seam allowances by trimming the undercollar seam allowance to 1/8 inch and the collar to ¼ inch.

• Press the seams open on a point presser, then turn the pieces inside out. Push out the corners gently (so as not to puncture a hole in the fabric) with the point turner. Press the pieces flat, rolling the seam slightly to the underside so that it will not show on the finished collar.

References

• "Sewing Made Easy"; Dorothy Sara; 1977