How to Make a Short Trumpet Skirt

From patterning to hemming, a trumpet skirt can be completed in a day.

A-line skirts are garments that have a fitted waist and tapered hemline. This figure flatters many different body types, so there are a variety of A-line skirts sold. The trumpet skirt is a type of multi-paneled, A-line skirt; the flared hem of the trumpet is formed with the addition of godets, triangular pieces of fabric. Because of the way that the material hangs, a light or mid-weight, non-stretch material is best for this project -- e.g., a cotton blend or silk. Vary the weight and pattern of the material used for the panels and godets for a more challenging project and visually interesting result.

Things You'll Need

• Tape measure
• Paper
• Pen
• Calculator
• Fabric
• Scissors
• Sewing machine
• Elastic band
• Iron

Instructions

Patterning and Parts

1. Measure the circumference of the widest point of your lower body; either your hips or thighs, A. Add three inches. Divide the measurement by six; divide by another number if you wish to have more than six panels. Add a one-inch seam allowance; this measurement is the width of each of the six panels, B.

2. Measure the length of the skirt from where you will wear the waistband to the hem, C. Place the hem above the knee, but below the middle of the thighs for a modest, short skirt; the flow and movement of this skirt make it too revealing as a mini or micro.

3. Cut a three-inch wide strip the length of A; this will form the waistband. Cut six strips of fabric the width of B and length of C; these will form the body of the skirt.

4. Multiply A by three to calculate the circumference of the hemline, where the skirt flares. Increase or decrease this value for a more or less dramatic flare. Subtract the value of A and then subtract three; this will give you the combined length of the godets. Divide by the number of panels. Add a one-inch seam allowance; this is the width of the base of each triangular godet.

5. Multiply C by .25 to calculate the height of each godet; this will produce a godet that is one-quarter of the skirt's total length. Adjust this percentage for a taller or shorter godet. Add a one-inch seam allowance.

6. Make a pattern for the godets on cardboard or pattern paper. Draw an upside-down "T" where the horizontal is equal to the width of the godet and the vertical is equal to the height of the godet. Use a ruler to draw a straight line from the highest point to the base, forming an isosceles triangle.

7. Use the pattern to cut out as many godets as there are panels; in this case, cut out six godets.

Waistband

1. Lay the waistband fabric on the table right-side down. Fold over the long edges of the fabric one-half inch. Iron the fabric to form sharp creases.

2. Fold the waistband fabric in half, lengthwise, so that the right-side is visible. Ensure that the edges of the material meet. Iron the material to form a piece of bias tape.

3. Place the elastic around your waist where you will wear your skirt. Form a loop so that the end overlaps one inch. Cut the elastic.

Body of the Skirt

1. Lay a skirt panel on the table right-side up. Place a godet on top of the panel, right-side down, so that the left corner of the godet is aligned with the lower-left corner of the panel.

2. Sew a straight stitch along this edge to attach these pieces; it is only necessary to sew one inch past the top of the godet.

3. Open up the fabric and lay it right-side up on the table; the godet will be on the left. Iron the seam flat to make this easier.

4. Lay a panel right-side down on the left side of the first piece aligning the corners; the bottom of the panel will overlap the godet, while the top will align almost perfectly with the first skirt panel. Pin the pieces in place.

5. Sew along the raw edge, the entire length of the panel. Open up the fabric and lay it flat, right-side up.

6. Lay a godet right-side down over the right-most panel, aligning the right raw edge of each piece. Sew along the right edge to attach the godet. The piece will be constructed as follows from left to right: panel, godet, panel, godet.

7. Repeat to attach the remaining godets and panels; the completed piece will be trapezoidal.

Assembly

1. Place the bias tape over the top of the skirt and pin it in place; the bias tape should be fitted over the top of the skirt like a clamp holding the raw edge.

2. Sew along the edge of the bias tape using a straight or zig-zag stitch to form a tube for the elastic. Sew two rows of stitches for durability.

3. Clip a safety pin to the end of the elastic piece. Use the pin like a needle to feed the elastic into the tube. Sew a straight stitch at either end of the tube to hold the elastic in place. Remove the safety pin. The top of the skirt will contract when the waistband is attached; this is okay.

4. Fold the skirt in half, right-side in the fold, so that the decorative side of the material is not visible. Pin the material in place if desired. Sew a straight stitch from the waistband down to the hem.

5. Hem the bottom of the skirt. Fold the fabric over a quarter of an inch, twice, so that the second fold encloses the raw edge. Sew a straight stitch near the fold that is closer to the hem, the one further from the edge of the skirt.

Tips & Warnings

• Embellish the skirt with sequins, embroidery, lace or ribbon.

References

• Craft Stylish; G'day Godet; 2007
• "Patternmaking"; Sylvia Rosen; 2004
• Mekong River Textiles: Trumpet Skirt