How to Build a Brick Fire Pit

A backyard fire pit simulates the fun of camping.

Installing a brick fire pit in your backyard opens a realm of possibilities for using your landscape. From snuggling up on cool autumn nights to roasting hot dogs over the fire for a rustic summer barbecue, a fire pit gives a number of opportunities for family gatherings and romantic get togethers. While many manufacturers sell premade pits and offer installation, installing one on your own can save you money while allowing you to customize the design and brick selection for your pit.

Things You'll Need

• Mason's crayon
• Cold chisel
• Brick hammer
• Flat edge spade
• Tape measure
• ¾-inch drainage gravel
• Hand tamper
• Level
• Rubber mallet
• Caulk gun
• Masonry glue
• Fire ring

Instructions

1. Set your bricks in position on top of your landscape in the location you want the fire pit. Arrange the bricks as if they were your actual pit, mapping out the exact size and location for your building. This will give you a guideline for construction and also let you see if you need to make any adjustments to your bricks.

2. Cut bricks to fit in your layout as necessary. Lay the brick over the gap it has to cover and use a mason's crayon to mark the underside of the brick where you need to cut it. Line up a 3-inch cold chisel on the line and smack it with a hammer a few times to score the line. Turn the block over and score all sides, and then hit the chisel firmly on the line until the brick breaks along the line.

3. Scrape off jagged cut edges with the tail-end of a brick hammer. Cut all remaining bricks as necessary to fit in place. Tighten bricks against each other as best you can and make sure all edges line up smoothly.

4. Dig into the ground about 1 inch from the perimeter of the brick layout with a spade, creating a guideline along the outside of the layout. With the guideline complete, remove the bricks, counting them as you remove them so that you know how many you used. You can also number the undersides with mason's crayon if you choose to make it easier to place the stones exactly back into place so that you don't have to cut any more.

5. Dig out a 12-inch deep trench along the guideline, wide enough to hold one block. Use the flat edge of a spade to make the sides of the trench as straight and flat as possible. Use a tape measure to ensure that the whole trench extends down 12 inches.

6. Line the trench with test bricks to make sure it is wide enough to accommodate the bricks. Make any adjustments as necessary and then remove the blocks again.

7. Dig out the center area surrounded by the trench to a depth of 6 inches. The center now sits only 6 inches higher than the trench.

8. Line the bottom of the trench with ¾-inch drainage gravel. Spread a 2- to 3-inch layer and then compact the gravel with a hand tamper. Add another thin layer and compact again, until the gravel fills the bottom 6 inches of the trench. Use the tamper to maintain a completely flat, level top surface. Add or remove gravel as necessary to make sure the top is completely flat. The gravel should now be even with the center area.

9. Set the first block into place on the gravel, lining it up carefully with the back of the trench. Use a level to make sure it sits completely flat, running side-to-side and front-to-back. If the block sits too high, tap it into place with a rubber mallet. If it's too low, slide a handful of gravel, patio paver base or sand underneath to slightly increase the height. This first block must be completely level and straight or the entire wall will be off.

10. Set the second brick next to the first, as tightly against the side of the first as possible. Make sure the front and back edges line up and level the two bricks together as before. Continue to lay the first course of bricks, carefully lining up and leveling every brick.

11. Select a starting location for the second level of your wall. Use a caulk gun to squeeze a thin bead of masonry glue across two abutting bricks, making a zigzag pattern to cover the seam between the two bricks. Center a new brick over the seam and press it firmly into place, tapping it down if necessary with your rubber mallet. Again, check for level but the second course should need little to no adjustment, since the first is completely flat.

12. Spread adhesive and lay all bricks in the second level, lining up bricks with the seams between the bottom bricks. Staggering joints in this way creates a strong construction. Continue until the second level is done.

13. Shovel 6 inches of gravel into the pit surrounded by the trench. Use the same method as before, adding thin layers and tamping the gravel down until it fills 6 inches. This gravel will help hold up the bricks while the adhesive dries.

14. Spread adhesive and lay all bricks for the third and fourth layers of your brick pit, staggering all joints as before. Continue to build until you have reached your desired height.

15. Insert the fire ring into the pit so that the top of the pit sits flush with the top of the brick wall. If there is any space between the wall and the edge of the ring, center the ring and fill in the gaps on all sides with gravel. Add another layer of bricks, or decorative capstones as necessary. Allow all adhesive to dry for 48 hours before using the fire pit.

Tips & Warnings

• Some bricks and blocks sold for building contain tongues and grooves to fit together for a stronger hold. If your bricks have these, chip off the tongues from the bottom of the bricks of the bottom row of the wall so that they sit completely flat in the dugout trench. These bulges will ruin the flat lay of the rest of the wall.

References

• This Old House: How to Build a Fire Pit; Harry Sawyers
• Firepit and Grilling Guru: Build a Brick Fire Pit Yourself