Ceramic Tile Floor Installation

Ceramic floor tile can transform a room almost overnight.

Install ceramic floor tiles to transform a dull, dark bathroom into a dynamic space that pops. You can tackle this project with a tape measure, chalkline and a little patience. As always, proper preparation of the subfloor is critical for the most successful outcome, but once the floor is flat and devoid of any holes, cracks and bumps, installing ceramic tile is a breeze.

Things You'll Need

• Level
• Tape measure
• Chalk line
• Thinset mortar
• 2 buckets
• Drill
• Mixing paddle
• Respirator
• Trowel
• Tiles
• Wet saw
• Grout
• Float
• Sponge
• Water

Instructions

1. Remove existing flooring and make sure the subfloor is rigid, level and all cracks are filled. The best practice is to put down a new layer of plywood underlayment so no inconsistencies telegraph through to the new floor. In moist environments such as bathrooms, cement fiber board should be installed. Make sure all dust and debris is removed from the subfloor.

2. Measure out the room and establish reference points. Find the most visible wall in the room and snap a chalkline to the opposite wall. Next find the center of that line and snap a perpendicular line that runs to the remaining two walls. This gives you a starting reference point and also squares the tiles to where the eye is initially draw.

3. Test the initial reference point to make sure it looks right and to adjust if you are going to end up with two small tiles on each wall. If you can hide one of those smaller tiles under a cabinet or door, shift the layout so you start with a full tile on the visible wall.

4. 

   Make sure the thinset mortar is the right consistency for easier tile installation.

   Mix the thinset mortar in a large bucket using a mortar paddle attachment on your electric drill. Wear a respirator for this step and during the rest of the job. Make up enough for about 30 minutes worth of work and begin spreading the mortar. Do this by first scooping a bunch on the floor then using the notched trowel to spread the mortar. Consistently holding the trowel at a 45 degree angle will allow for a good spread that creates nice beaded ridges but leaves the space between the ridges nearly bare. If the mortar is too dry the ridges will not spread evenly and gaps will form, if too wet the ridges will blend together.

5. Begin laying your tiles at the intersection of the reference points you've drawn, then work toward the wall, using your line as the guide. Continue this until you finish your first quadrant of the room. Once a section is finished and you are happy the grout lines are even, set the tiles. Make sure the tiles are all the same level and any excess mortar is cleaned up immediately.

6. Cut perimeter tiles to the correct sizes with a wet saw and adhere them to floor. If necessary apply mortar directly to the back of tiles going under cabinets or other tight spots.

7. Mix the grout according to the manufacturer's instructions once the mortar is completely cured. Use your grout float to push the grout diagonally across the tile, making sure it gets into the gaps. Once you're certain the grout is in the gaps, gently wipe up the excess with the grout float.

8. Clean the tiles with a sponge and bucket of clean water. This will take several passes, so make sure the water stays clean. Finally, clean near the grout lines so they are lower than the edges of the tile.

Tips & Warnings

• Wear a respirator when pulling up old flooring and mixing thinset mortar and grout.

References

• Hometime: Floor Layout
• Hometime: Installing Tile Floors