How to Make Activewear
Yoga, exercise or sports generally require comfortable activewear. Manufacturers produce diverse collections including hoodies, knit tops, pull-on pants and shorts. Fabric selection is one of the key ingredients when making these garment types. A percentage of Lycra/Spandex ensures four-way stretch, which refers to the textile's ability to stretch vertically, horizontally and diagonally. Though higher percentages of Lycra/Spandex translate into a higher price per yard, it does guarantee a higher probability for fabric recovery. Textiles that do not include fabric recovery yarns result in sagging, worn, or stretched out areas in the garment.
Things You'll Need
- Sketchpad
- Drawing paper (optional)
- Drafting pencils
- Fabrics (your choice; minimum two yards)
- Trims (your choice)
- Pre-made patterns
- Pattern paper
- Sharp straight pins
- Sharp fabric scissors
- Fabric pattern weights
- Non-stick protective sheet
- Iron
- Serger/Overlock machine
- Elasticized thread
Instructions
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1
Draw several activewear styles in a sketchpad or on drawing paper with drafting pencils. Include styles reflecting your desired sport or activity. For example, if you are making styles for yoga, include pull-on pants with a wide leg for comfort and ease during motion. Add a wide waistband with an adjustable self-fabric drawstring. Draw form-fitting tops with an attached inner bra.
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2
Choose fabrics for the sketched styles from Step 1, keeping your desired sport in mind. For instance, if you are making cycling activewear, include fabrics like nylon/Spandex blends, tricot or polyester. Make sure the textile is a high performance fabric including waterproofing and breathable qualities. These fabrics also ensure a contoured fit. It is beneficial to have a minimum of two yards of fabric per style to make trimmings like binding, which is fabric cut on the bias used to finish armholes and necklines.
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3
Choose trims for the sketched styles such as heavy-duty #5 YKK Delrin zippers. This trim type is generally an outerwear garment and generally used with track, running, jogging or outdoor activewear garments. Enamel-coated snaps resist rusting from rain and bungee cords with toggles allow the user to adjust loose garments for a snug fit. Insert elastic covered with rib in jacket and pant waistbands or cuffs as an alternative.
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4
Adjust patterns according to the sketched styles from Step 1 and fabric blend content in Step 2. If you are a beginner, trace pre-made patterns resembling your sketched styles onto pattern paper and keep the originals for future reference. For example, if you are working with 100% cotton fleece, which has natural stretch as a knitted textile, follow a basic jog pant pattern. This pant type usually includes an elastic waistband, adjustable draw-cord and a loose leg for movement. If you are working with 94% cotton jersey/6% Lycra fabric for a short sleeve V-neck pullover, adjust the top pattern by removing ½ inch from the center seam as well as the side seam.
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5
Pin the patterns onto your chosen fabric with sharp straight pins. Pin along the ¼-inch seam allowance to avoid snags in fabric yarns or visible pinholes in lightweight high performance textiles.
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6
Cut the fabric with sharp fabric scissors. Bear in mind, certain high performance textiles have a tendency to roll during placement, resulting in inaccurate cutting. As an alternative, place fabric pattern weights to hold the textile in place during cutting. Fabric covered pattern weights protect the textile.
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7
Re-pin the cut fabric parts prior to serging. These fabric types have a tendency to curl along the raw edges. If excessive curling exists, cover the textile with a non-stick protective sheet and lightly iron the raw edges straight with a warm iron.
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8
Run an overlock stitch along all raw edges of the cut fabric parts prior to assembling, which prevents fabric yarns from unraveling during excessive stretching. This is especially important if you are working with textiles like fleece or French terry. If your serger machine does not include an overlock stitch, you need a separate overlock machine. Use elasticized thread to prevent breakage as fabric stretches.
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9
Thread your serger machine with elasticized thread and serge fabric parts together. Form-fitting styles using lightweight fabrics like polyester or nylon can skip Step 7. The serger produces an overlock-type stitch as it cuts away raw edges and serges side seams together.
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Tips & Warnings
If you are designing an activewear collection, invest in a dress form with removable arms and legs to fit styles during assembly and construction.
References
- Photo Credit Jupiterimages/Brand X Pictures/Getty Images
