Repair for Cupped Laminate Flooring
When laminate is cupped, the center of the plank is lower than the edges, indicating water damage. Determine the extent of the damage and the source of the moisture. If the entire floor is cupping, a burst pipe, improperly cured concrete or wet-mopping may be the problem. Few warranties cover water damage, and the entire floor will need replacement once the moisture problem is fixed. Localized damage may be the result of pet urine, improperly acclimatized planks or an incorrectly sealed joint. For smaller damage, lift the floor to the cupped planks, remove them, fix the moisture problem, replace the planks and reinstall the floor. Does this Spark an idea?
Things You'll Need
- Replacement planks
- Pry bar
- Screwdriver
- Skill saw
- Tapping block
- SIlicone sealant (clear)
Instructions
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Acclimatize unwrapped replacement planks in the room where you will install them for 48 hours or longer, according to the manufacturer's recommendation.
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2
Remove the shoe molding and baseboards, tracking the order so that you can reinstall them correctly.
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Remove the reducer molding, the "T" molding and unscrew the metal track at the doorway with a screwdriver, if the door is on the wall where you will lift the laminate.
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With a pry bar, gently lift the laminate and stack it so that you can replace it in the same order.
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Remove and inspect the damaged planks.
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Determine the source of the damage. Do the planks smell of pet urine? If the planks are near a bathtub or a toilet, perhaps the laminate was sealed incorrectly, allowing some moisture to seep underneath. If there is no visible sign of the source of the problem, the planks may not have been acclimatized to the room prior to installation.
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Correct the source of the damage, and make sure the area is completely free of moisture. If pet urine is the problem, keep the animal out of the room. If a joint was improperly sealed near water-bearing equipment, use a clear silicone sealant to make the repair. For example, near a bathtub leave a 1/4 expansion gap, put down a row of planks and apply a continuous line of silicone sealant along the edge to prevent moisture for getting underneath. Apply a line of silicone to the tongue of the next row and click the rows together, wiping any excess away. It's wise to do this for any row of laminate that might be exposed to moisture. Follow the laminate manufacturer's instructions for using silicone sealant in a moist area or consult a professional installer.
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Replace the damaged planks with properly acclimatized laminate, leaving 1/4 inch for an expansion gap along each wall or hard object. Cut the end pieces for each row to fit, using a skill saw.
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Reinstall the laminate floor, replacing the planks in the order that you removed them. Tap gently on the joints with the tapping block to engage the locking mechanism.
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Reinstall the metal track, "T" molding and reducer molding at the doorway. Replace the baseboards and shoe molding in the correct order.
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Tips & Warnings
Thinner, poor-quality laminates may not withstand the wear and tear of being lifted and reinstalled. A laminate of 8 mm or thicker should be strong enough.
Be gentle when lifting and reinstalling laminate planks to avoid chipping them or causing other damage.
If you can't detect the cause of the problem, consult a professional installer.
If the underlay and sub-floor are visibly wet when you lift the laminate, you may have a burst or leaking pipe. Call the plumber.
Do not reinstall laminate until the moisture problem is completely resolved and the area is dry.
Laminate reacts to moisture by swelling like wet cardboard. Never wet mop a laminate floor, and wipe up spills immediately.
References
- Laminate Floor Problems: The Right and Wrong of Laminate Floor Installation and Information on Laminate Flooring Problems
- Laminate Floor Problems; Water Damage to Laminate Flooring; Terry & Kevin Weinheimer; September 2009
- Wood Floors Online: Problems with Wood Floors: Avoiding Trouble with Wood Floors
Resources
- Photo Credit Photodisc/Photodisc/Getty Images