Outdoor Patio Table DIY

To build a simple, sturdy outdoor table requires only basic carpentry skills and a day to cut out and assemble the pieces. Built of pressure-treated lumber or redwood, this 28-inch-wide by 8-foot-long table will provide decades of use. This design is a basic table without attached benches. Attached benches can be added, or the table can be used with patio or folding chairs.

Things You'll Need

• 12 boards, 2- by 4-inch by 8 feet long
• 1 board, 2- by 6-inch by 8 feet long
• Circular saw
• Tape measure
• Speed square
• 16 3/8-inch carriage bolts, 3 inches long
• 16 flat washers, 3/8-inch with ¾-inch outer diameter
• Socket wrench set
• 2 boxes 16d galvanized twist nails, 1 pound each
• Hammer
• 2 spring clamping tools
• Drill
• 3/8-inch bit
• 3/4-inch spade bit
• Safety glasses

Instructions

1. Cut three 2-by-6 boards 28 inches long. Lay the three boards on edge on a flat surface, parallel and 4 feet apart. Lay eight 2-by-4 boards flat on top of the three 28-inch-long 2-by-6s and hammer a single galvanized twist nail through each top board into the 2-by-6s to make a tabletop.

2. Cut four legs from two 8-foot-long 2-by-6 boards. Mark a 60-degree angle cut with the speed square at one end of a leg, Measure one side and mark it 33 1/2 inches long. With the speed square, mark a 60-degree angle from the mark, angled in the same direction running parallel to the other end. Both sides of the legs should be 33½ inches long and the leg shaped like a long parallelogram..

3. Set the top end of the legs at the edge of the end support of the table, so that the legs angle outward. Clamp the leg into place. Drill two 3/8-inch holes along the center of the leg about 2 inches apart. Leave the leg clamped to the support so that when you drill, each hole will go through both the legs and supports. With a 3/4-inch spade bit, drill a recess in each hole on the inside of the support. This allows the washer and nut to be recessed when tightened. Insert the 3-inch carriage bolts from the leg side, through the support board. Tighten the bolt and washer with a socket wrench.. Repeat with the other three legs.

4. Turn the table over and set it on the legs. Measure 18 inches below the tabletop and mark a horizontal line across the legs. Clamp a 2-by-6 board across the legs to form an "A" shape. Mark the angle of the outside sweep of the legs on the 2-by-6 cross support. Unclamp it and cut along the marks so the ends of the cross support match the edges of the legs.

5. Reclamp the cross support and drill two 3/8-inch holes from the leg side through the support. Place the holes an inch apart on either side of the center where the leg and cross support intersect. Recess the the holes on the inside of the cross support. Insert the 3-inch carriage bolts from the leg side and fit the washer and nut into the recess on the cross support side. Repeat the process to secure the leg cross support between the legs at the other end.

6. Cut a 2-by-4 to fit between the center tabletop support and the center of the leg support for a longitudinal brace. Cut the ends at a 17-degree angle, both the same angle so that both sides are about 44 inches. Test fit the longitudinal brace and trim it to fit. Do the same with a second longitudinal brace to fit from the other side of the center tabletop support and the center of the other leg support. Offset the ends of the longitudinal braces at the center so you can nail into the ends of the braces. Nail the braces into place.

Tips & Warnings

• Wear eye protection when working with power tools.

References

• Handyman USA: Building a Picnic Table
• Toolcrib: 32 Free Picnic Table Plans
• Ron Hazelton's Housecalls: How to Build an Outdoor Dining Table