How to Make a Civil War Bonnet With Wire in Brim

When wearing a Civil War costume, you can re-live the romance of the era.

When making period costumes, ensure that the outfit is properly accessorized to create the most accurate impression. If you're putting together a Civil War era women's or girl's costume, the most prominent accessory is the bonnet. In the 1860s, bonnets enhanced a woman's sense of style and protected their faces and necks from the sun. To make your own bonnet, begin by selecting a pattern or, if you are so inclined, create a one-of-a-kind bonnet.

Things You'll Need

• Bonnet pattern
• 1/2 yard fusible buckram
• Scissors
• Iron
• Millinery wire
• Sewing machine
• Thread
• Needle
• 1/2 yard lining
• 1/2 yard material
• 1 1/2 yard thick ribbon
• Trimmings of your choice

Instructions

1. Place the pattern piece for the bonnet's crown onto the buckram and cut out the outline. Shape the bonnet, bringing the two halves together to create a cylindrical back with an open semicircle for the bonnet's frame.

2. Fuse the buckram's cylindrical portion together with the iron to seal the back, following the manufacturer's instructions. Line up the millinery wire around the edge of the brim and, using the wide zig-zag stitch on your sewing machine, attach the wire to the brim.

3. Cut out the lining piece according to the pattern's specification and sew it to the inside of the bonnet, keeping right sides together. Fold it to the inside for a smooth finish and stitch it onto the back of the bonnet.

4. Cut out the material in the same way and sew it underneath the bonnet's brim, keeping the right side turned to the inside. This seam should lie one-half inch into the lining so that there isn't a place where the buckram can peek through. Flip the piece of the material back to cover the top of the bonnet and stitch it into place. Leave the circle at the very back uncovered at this point.

5. Take the measurements of the circle at the back and cut out a circular piece of your material measuring 50 percent larger. Gather the material until it measures the same size as the back circle for an elegant, period-inspired, "bunching" look. Hand stitch into place.

6. Hand sew the ribbon onto the bonnet, keeping it running from ear to ear on the bonnet's surface. This will provide you with a way to tie the bonnet under your chin to keep it secure. Trim the ribbon and decorate the bonnet with any trimmings you desire.

Tips & Warnings

• Bonnets were often used to dress up an outfit, so consider materials with a rich look, such as velvet and taffeta.

References

• From the Neck Up: An Illustrated Guide to Hatmaking by Denise Dreher
• The History Place - U.S. Civil War 1861-1865

Resources

• Miller's Millinery Bonnets: Fashionable Bonnets
• Jenny La Fleur - Adventures in Costumemaking: A Bee in My Bonnet