How to Make Moldings With the Stanley 66
The Stanley #66 beading tool was patented in 1886 and sold between 1888 and 1941. It was sometimes called a hand beader or beading spokeshave, as its shape is similar to that of a spokeshave. The tool was initially supplied with seven flat cutters shaped at both ends. From 1909, an eighth blank cutter was added allowing a home-ground option of any shape. A straight and curved oval fence was also supplied enabling both straight and curved beadings and moldings to be cut. The cutting action is similar to a scraper's with the cutter pitch facing away from the handler.
Other People Are Reading
Instructions
-
Setting up to tool
-
1
Select the fence required. For cutting a molding on straight wood, use the straight fence. Use the curved fence of the Stanley #66 for creating curved moldings.
-
2
Select the cutter required. If a non-standard molding is wanted, grind a cutter to the required shape.
-
-
3
Secure the cutter in the stock using the thumbscrew. Fit cutter to the correct depth ensuring the sole of the tool will be in contact with the wood.
-
4
Position the fence on the stock to the left of the cutter as required and secure it using the thumbscrew and washer. Both fences are grooved to facilitate partial use of the cutters if necessary.
Cutting a molding
-
5
Secure the wood in the vice. Grip the Stanley #66 with both hands, as if using a spokeshave. Ensure that the cutter is sloping away from you.
-
6
Position the tool on the wood with the fence pushed against the edge of the wood. Push the Stanley #66 away from you with slight downward and right-handed force to produce molding cuts.
-
7
Adjust the cutter as necessary to increase depth of cut until molding is completed.
-
8
Smooth the molding with sandpaper to remove any marks left by the tool.
-
1
Tips & Warnings
Test your cutter settings on scrap wood before attempting to cut moldings.
It may be easier to secure the wood in a G-clamp when cutting curved moldings.
Observe grain structure of wood. It may be easier to pull tool towards you over some sections of the molding.
A Lie-Nielsen #66 may be substituted for a Stanley #66.
Wash hands after handling, tools may contain lead.
Cutters too exposed results in a snatching effect on the wood.
It is not recommended that the Stanley #66 be used to cut moldings on end grain.
