How to Make Smocking for an Elastic Waistband

Elastic thread is the key to smocking.

Smocking, also known as shirring, is a way to decoratively elasticize a garment. It is a technique often used on elastic waistbands of skirts and pants as well as dress bodices to give them a more fitted appearance without being too constrictive. Surprisingly, this technique is no more difficult than a regular straight stitch on your sewing machine and takes only a few minutes.

Things You'll Need

• Sewing machine
• Elastic thread
• Spray bottle
• Iron

Instructions

1. Cut out the fabric for your garment according to the pattern and use tailor's chalk or a water soluble pen to mark the waistband area that will be smocked. Make a small dot or short line every few inches to guide you as you sew to prevent your stitching lines from being crooked. Unless the fabric is very thin, the garment will need multiple rows of stitching to achieve a gathered look. The number of rows you need depends on how large an area is being smocked and how close together you want the rows of stitching to be.

2. Wind elastic thread onto your bobbin. Do this by hand rather than with your sewing machine so the elastic doesn't get stretched out. Keep even tension on the thread as you're winding it. Once you've finished, put the bobbin into your sewing machine and thread the machine as you normally would.

3. Sew your first line of stitching beginning at one side of the fabric. Sew a few stitches in reverse first, then a few stitches forward. This will lock the seam and prevent it from unraveling. Proceed to stitch forward, following the marks you made previously. As you sew, the elastic thread in your bobbin will begin to gather the fabric.

4. Raise the machine's presser foot when you reach the end of the first row, without cutting the thread. Move the needle down to the next row, then lower the needle into the fabric. Pivot the fabric 180 degrees using the needle as an axis and then lower the presser foot and stitch the row as you did the previous one. Continue this process until you've stitched every row. Lock the seam at the end just as you did at the beginning and clip the thread.

5. Spray the smocked area with a small amount of water to dampen it and press it lightly with an iron. This should help the smocking to gather up even more and will also erase your chalk or pen marks.

References

• Craft Stylish: How to Create Elastic Shirring
• Etsy: How-Tuesday---Smocked Sundress from Weekend Sewing