How to Assemble a Water Bed

Water beds are still around -- the sloshy vinyl bladders filled with heated water are a sleeping adventure, and offer some relief for people who suffer from arthritis, back pain or insomnia. Standard, framed waterbeds come in a kit that includes everything but bedding and a few simple tools for assembly. It isn't hard to put together a water bed, but it does help to have help. The frame and mattress are large, and need positioning and adjustments that are much easier two do if two people tackle them. A standard water bed can be set up in a couple of hours.

Things You'll Need

• Water bed kit
• Screwdrivers
• Measuring tape
• Duct tape
• Utility knife (for tape)
• Clean garden hose
• Broom handle

Instructions

1. Lay out the wood frame pieces with the finished sides facing the floor. Attach the headboard to the top crosspiece. Most headboards screw right onto the frame but check manufacturer's instructions for any special directions.

2. Prop the headboard section upright, and attach the long sides to the headboard, using the included brackets and screws. Enlist a helper to hold the parts steady while you attach the brackets. Screw the brackets for the foot section of the frame on last.

3. Move the frame to where the bed will be. Assemble the support pedestal by sliding the plastic corner brackets on. Don't tap them on with a hammer, even if they are stiff. Center the pedestal frame inside the outer frame and slot the center support pieces together at the cutouts in the wood pieces. Measure to be sure the center pieces are in the exact center of the support pedestal. Then tilt the outer frame up, and lean it against a wall.

4. Place the deck boards on top of the support pedestal. If you have a queen-size frame, the narrowest board goes in the middle. Replace the outer frame, checking to see that any grooves in the frame hang over the deck boards. Use enclosed "L" brackets to screw the frame to the deck boards, spacing the brackets evenly around the bed. Cover any rough edges or screw tops on the brackets with a small piece of duct tape to protect the mattress. Snap or slide the padded rail caps over the edges of the frame.

5. Lay the unplugged heating pad in the center of the decking, avoiding the seams between decking boards. Run the power cord through the cutout at the head of the bed, but do not plug it in. Mount the thermostat control to the side of the bed, and run the sensor tube through the cutout. Lay the sensor tube on the decking, 12 inches away from the heating pad. Plug the heating pad into the thermostat control, set the temperature and test the heater by plugging it into the wall and placing your hand on the heating pad. As soon as it feels warm, unplug the heating pad.

6. Spread the liner over the support deck and smooth any wrinkles. Spread the mattress smoothly over the liner with the fill valve showing at the foot of the mattress. Attach a clean hose to the fill valve. Use a mix of hot and cold water from an indoor tap to fill the mattress. Remove the aerator cap from the end of a kitchen or bathroom faucet, screw the hose end to it, and fill the mattress with about two inches of warm water.

7. Make any final adjustments and fill to about 1/4 -inch below the side of the frame. Remove the hose, and pour in the mattress conditioner that came with the bed. Use a broom handle to push air bubbles from the head of the mattress to the valve before capping it.

Tips & Warnings

• Using warm water from an indoor tap instead of outdoor faucet cold water to fill the mattress prevents overload on the heater.

• Position the bed so you can plug the heater directly into the wall socket without using an extension cord.

References

• Utah State University Extension: Selecting a Water Mattress
• youtube: How to Set Up and Install a Bookshelf Waterbed
• Time Magazine: Oh, Wow, Waterbeds Are Back