How to Sew Patches by Hand Onto Leather

Waxed thread extends the life of the patch.

Trying to patch leather may sound like a daunting task, but it need not be more difficult than patching a pair of jeans, provided that you have the proper tools to sew through leather. The main difference between sewing cloth and sewing leather is that the tools required to sew leather are very specific. For instance, waxed thread adds durability to the stitches, and a triangularly pointed needle drives through the leather without tearing it, but a rounded needle will.

Things You'll Need

• Leather article to be patched
• Matching leather for patch
• Scissors
• Pen
• Leather hole punch
• Thimble
• Waxed thread
• Triangular-point needle

Instructions

1. Lay the article to be patched down on a table with the hole exposed and flat against the surface. Cut your patch to size, ensuring that it remains slightly larger than the hole in order to sew it properly.

2. 

   Leather hole punches are time-saving tools when sewing through leather.

   Mark the patch where you want the stitches to lie, and then mirror the markings on the leather article. The size and distance between the stitches is up to you, but keep the stitches small if you want them to remain discreet. If you decide to sew small stitches, however, they can be as small as 1/16 of an inch, provided that you keep the stitches close together. Likewise, if the stitches are too wide, then the patch may grow loose. Check the integrity of your patch after a few stitches and adjust accordingly.

3. Punch holes into both the garment and the patch, using a setting on the hole punch relative to the the size of your needle. Make sure that none of the holes get too near the open edges, as this will compromise the integrity of the patch.

4. Separate the lining from the torn leather, and place the patch between the two layers, making sure that all portions lay flush against one another. Or, if the lining is attached to the leather, place the patch under the lining.

5. Thread the needle and knot the thread's loose end. Slide the needle up through the patch and the garment, using the holes you punched in Step 3 for added ease. Pull the thread taut, and then push the needle down into the next hole. This is called a running stitch and should be repeated until the patch is completely attached to the leather.

6. Test the strength of your stitches. If you feel that the patch will not stay put, sew over the stitches once more. When you are finished, knot the thread in an unseen area under the patch.

Tips & Warnings

• This guide is written to keep the patch hidden as much as possible. However, if you wish to sew the patch on top of the leather for display purposes, follow the same instructions, omitting Step 4 and placing the patch on top of the leather instead.

References

• Corps of Discovery: Working Leather

Resources

• Bowstock: A Guide to Leatherworking Tools