How to Use Can Lids for Tin Smithing

Make punched-metal ornaments or dimensional flowers from clean, empty food cans.

Most cans are made of mild steel, not tin. It takes more force to draw the metal as you hammer steel, but hammer angles and other techniques are basically the same for both metals. Steel reaches eutectic, the critical temperature just before it liquefies, at a much higher temperature than tin. Stamping and sealing cans fatigues the metal. Anneal the lids, or heat and slow-cool them, before you cut, hammer or grind them.

Things You'll Need

• Forge
• Tongs or vise grips
• Propane torch
• Wrap-around eye protection
• Ear protection
• Bench or angle grinder
• Wire wheel
• Cross-pein hammer
• Awl, punch or 10-penny nail
• "S" hooks
• Flat-nose pliers
• Ornament hangers
• Side cutters or tin snips
• Chisel
• Engine cleaner
• Paper towels
• 16- to 20-gauge steel wire
• 3/16- to 3/8-inch diameter steel rod
• 110-volt gasless MIG welder
• Welding helmet and full leathers
• Clear, rust-inhibiting enamel

Instructions

Punchwork

1. Place the can lids in your forge. Heat them to somewhere between dull red and dull orange as seen in low light, which is between 1200 and 2100 degrees Fahrenheit. If you do not have access to a forge, hold each lid with a pair of tongs or vise grips and heat them using a propane torch. Allow the lids to slow-cool to room temperature before proceeding.

2. Don ear protection and wraparound eye protection. Use a wire wheel on your bench or angle grinder to remove burrs and smooth the edges of each can lid.

3. Punch a hole in each can lid, 1/4-inch from the edge, using a cross-pein hammer and an awl, punch or 10-penny nail. Insert an "S" hook through the hole and pinch the bottom half closed with pliers. Leave the top half of the hook open.

4. Lay the can lid "good" side up, the side that used to be the outside of the can. Punch holes in your choice of pattern through the can lid, using any hammer and your choice of awl, punch or 10-penny nail.

5. Add an ornament hanger through the open top of the "S" hook. Close the hook using flat-nose pliers and twist the ornament hanger several times to ensure it does not fall off when hung or stored.

Dimensional Flowers

1. Use side cutters or tin snips to make four equally-spaced cuts around the edge of each can lid, from the outer edge to within 1-inch to 1/2-inch of the center point, depending how flat a base you want your flower to have.

2. Make a cut between each of the first four cuts to create a total of eight petals. Bend every other petal slightly toward the center or away from it.

3. Cut leaf shapes from additional can lids. Create a crease from the tip of each leaf to the base, using a hammer and chisel. Bend each leaf into a more natural-looking shape using flat-nose pliers.

4. Smooth the edges of each petal and leaf using a wire wheel on a bench or angle grinder.

5. Reverse the bend in the outward-facing petals so that all eight form a cup shape. Bend the end of each petal outward to give it a rose-like appearance.

6. Spray the entire flower head with engine cleaner until it is dripping wet. Wipe away all the residue created when you wire-wheeled your flower, using a clean, dry paper towel. Repeat for each leaf.

7. Wrap 16-gauge wire around a 3/8-inch rod, or 20-gauge wire around a 3/16-inch rod, in a spiral pattern.

8. Don a welding helmet and full leathers, including gloves. Use a 110-volt gasless MIG welder to secure each end of the wire wrap to each steel rod.

9. Weld each flower head to the top of each steel rod. Weld one or more leaves to each stem wherever they look best, close to the flower. If you use multiple leaves, the furthest leaf should not be more than 6 inches from the base of the flower.

10. Spray the entire flower, stem and any leaves with 2 to 5 coats of clear, rust-inhibiting enamel, allowing to dry completely between coats.

References

• "Glossary of Metalworking Terms"; Richard P. Pohanish; 2002
• Shady Grove Blacksmith Shop: Steel Heat Colors