How to Make Hem Stitches on a Sewing Machine

Hem your projects using a sewing machine rather than doing it by hand.

Sewing hems on a sewing machine is much faster than doing them by hand. Most sewing machines have various stitch functions, including several different types of hem stitches. Many come with an assortment of presser feet, which are interchangeable attachments that guide the material through the machine. If your sewing machine didn't come with a blind hem foot, you'll need to get one. Make the standard turned-up hem with the standard presser foot, and the blind stitch or invisible hem with the blind hem foot. Practice on scrap fabric before trying to hem projects.

Things You'll Need

• Scrap fabric, various types and weights
• Iron
• Sewing machine
• Thread
• Standard presser foot
• Scissors
• Blind hem foot

Instructions

1. Thread the sewing machine with either matching thread or contrasting thread, depending on the look you want. Make sure the standard presser foot is on the machine. Begin with a piece of one of the heavier fabrics, and iron it to remove any creases. You're going to make a standard turned up hem.

2. 

   Press creases into the fabric.

   Fold up one edge of the fabric half an inch. Iron it flat, making a sharp crease in the fabric. Fold it over again, so that you have three layers of fabric if you look at the end.The folds should look like a lower-case letter "e." Iron the folds again, making a strong crease in the material.

3. Place the material on the sewing machine, with the folded edge on the right side and the rest of the fabric to the left of the needle. Start sewing and place one line of stitches from one end of the folded-over hem to the other. This will stitch through all three layers of fabric and secure the edge in a hem. Pull the threads out about 6 inches and cut them to remove the piece from the machine. Practice multiple times if needed. Experiment on different types of fabric.

4. Begin a blind hem. Fold the edge of the fabric up about 1/2 inch, and iron it. Fold the fabric up once again, about 1 inch. When sewing a garment, fold it to whatever hem allowance is called for in the pattern. Baste the hem, placing one row of long, straight stitches about 1/8 inch from the fold. Cut the threads and remove the piece.

5. Remove the standard presser foot by lifting the tiny lever at the back of it. It should drop off of the shank. Attach the blind hem foot by pulling the lever back, lifting the foot into place and releasing the lever. Lay the hem allowance face down and fold the fabric back so that the edge of the 3/8-inch hem just touches the fold and there is a one inch flap folded under the longer part of the fabric. The material is folded similarly to a paper fan or accordion.

6. Place the fabric on the sewing machine, select the blind hem stitch, which looks like the letter "v" and several straight stitches, then another "v," similar to this: ^------^. Lower the needle into the fabric. Lower the presser foot lever, and slowly begin to make stitches. Hold the fabric taut as you stitch, but don't stretch it out of shape. The needle will make one zigzag stitch then several straight stitches before making another zigzag stitch. Make sure that the zigzag stitches -- the "v" stitches -- are hitting just the edge of the garment, the longer part of the fabric. Continue stitching all along the hem. When you finish and remove the fabric from the machine, the fold you made will unfold, and the "v" stitches will be nearly invisible if you used matching thread.

Tips & Warnings

• Be sure you have the right combination of needle and thread for your fabric.

• Consult your sewing machine's manual for suggested combinations for your machine.

• Use contrasting thread for effect on the straight turned-up hems, if contrasting thread is used in other parts of the garment.

• Keep fingers away from the needle.

• Sew slowly, especially with blind hems.

References

• "Complete Guide to Sewing"; Reader's Digest; 1976
• "The Ultimate Sewing Book"; Maggie Gordon; 2002