How to Attach a French Bustle on My Wedding Gown
For brides with a train, a bustle is a must. As the purpose of this dress addition is to keep the train off the floor and out of the way during the wedding reception, choosing a bustle style is instrumental in having a successful day and preserving your dress for future generations. Though many different styles exist, the two most common are the American, or over-bustle, and the French, or under-bustle. While the American is meant to add flash and style to the dress, the French is more understated and merely there to serve a purpose. This bustle is attached completely under the dress, preserving the pattern while keeping the train clean. This simple yet elegant style is a fairly easy and inexpensive home project for the bride on a budget. Does this Spark an idea?
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Things You'll Need
- Wedding dress with train
- Tape measure
- Straight pins
- Thread and needle
- Ribbon or cord
Instructions
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Measure the center seam of the dress from the waistline to the floor, using a tape measure. Then determine the distance from the edge of the train. Put a straight pin in the location to mark it.
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Pull the material at the straight pin to the center waistline. Adjust the fold to where the bustle will be fastened. This can be done by measuring a 1/2 inch to 3/4 inches off the floor, or simply by determining your own preferential aesthetic placement of the fabric. Pin it.
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Fold the train on each of the back side seams. Place straight pins strategically to keep the fabric in place. Continue creasing material until it is all off the floor. Make sure you are pinning on the seam. Also, start folding at or below the end of the zipper. Don't go above it.
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Free the bustle. Place pins tactically on the train and waistline. Sew the center of an approximately 15-inch piece of material. This can be anything sturdy that isn't likely to break. Grosgrain ribbon or cord is recommended. Stitch it at all the pin marks. Replicate this step to make remaining ties.
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Create the hoops by cutting out approximately 2 1/2 inches of material leftover from making the ties. Half the length and stitch it to the inside of the train. It should be around a 1/2 inch below the pin marks used to make the ties. The area can either be supported with additional fabric, or the seam can be used for reinforcement. Repeat this step for all the pin marks.
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Interleave fabric lashes through equivalent hoops. When this is complete, you can tie the stays in a bow or a knot to secure the fabric, or merely tuck them out of the way. Adjust and smooth down the bustle as preferred.
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Tips & Warnings
Deciding on the French Bustle: A French bustle might be a good choice aesthetically if your dress is an A-line or isn't a full ball gown. It is also an option for dresses that have a lot of detail in the back as it doesn't cover the area below the waist. It can be expensive to have a French bustle added by a seamstress, therefore it is ideal to do it yourself if time permits.
Put the French Bustle to use: Designate a bridesmaid beforehand to tie up the bustle after the ceremony. Make sure she knows how to do it. You may want to practice ahead of time. As the ties don't show in an under bustle, it may also be helpful to color code them, using a different colored piece of material to mark the place where each cord is tied together.
Make sure you use a robust material for your ties, as dress trains can be heavy and the ties frequently break. Cord and grosgrain ribbon are good choices.
If a tie does break, use diaper pins or something secure to repair the damage, as regular safety pins are usually too weak to do the job.
References
Resources
- Photo Credit wedding gown dress white hanging shoe image by Paul Retherford from Fotolia.com
