How to Grow a Stanley Plum Tree Rootstock

Stanley plums are grafted fruit trees.

The best Stanley plums come from Stanley plum scions (branches) grafted onto a hardy rootstock of another variety. The University of Connecticut recommends two rootstocks for grafting plums: Myrobalan 29C and Marianna 2624. These cold-hardy, pest-resistant rootstocks can be purchased with Stanley scions already grafted to them. You'll notice a small scar or welt low on the trunk. That's the graft union. Keep the graft union well above the soil line at planting for best results.

Things You'll Need

• Shovel
• Peat
• Sand
• Organic compost
• Bucket
• 10-10-10 fertilizer
• Mulch
• Pruning shears

Instructions

1. Find a site for planting plum trees in late fall or early spring that gets plenty of sun and some shelter from cold northwest winds.

2. Dig a hole with a shovel twice the size of the Stanley plum's root ball and just as deep. Amend the soil with a mix of equal parts peat, sand and organic compost for good drainage if your soil contains clay.

3. Remove the burlap or container from the Stanley plum's root ball and loosen roots with your fingers if they are coiled or compressed. Set the tree in the hole and check that the graft union is at least 2 inches above the soil line. Backfill the hole with soil, pressing it firmly against the roots to close air spaces. Finish with a bucket of water, poured slowly over the root zone.

4. Water every other day for the first month after planting to help the tree establish new roots. In early spring, apply 10-10-10 fertilizer to the root zone according to package instructions for the size and age of the Stanley plum.

5. In late spring, spread a 2- to 4-inch layer of mulch in a 3-foot ring over the root zone, starting 6 inches from the trunk. This will suppress weeds, hold moisture and regulate soil temperature in the root zone.

6. Begin pruning your Stanley plum in its second growing season. Remove vertically growing branches with pruning shears, thinning the center of the tree for an open, vase-like shape. Better light and air penetration to the center of the canopy results in higher fruit production, especially for Stanley plum, which begins fruiting in its third year.

Tips & Warnings

• Though it is possible to grow a Stanley plum tree from a pit, thus producing your own rootstock, it isn't practical for home fruit production. Stone fruits do not breed "true" from seed. That is, you're likely to grow a tree, but not a tree that produces the same quality or quantity of fruit as the mother plant.

• Always prune down and away from the trunk at a slight angle, leaving a short stub that will drip moisture instead of collecting it, which will help prevent rot in the pruning wound.

References

• University of Connecticut: Growing Plums in Connecticut
• Ohio State University: Plums: A Guide to Selection and Use
• University of Minnesota: Stone Fruits for Minnesota Gardens

Resources

• Iowa State University: Raising, Pruning and Managing Backyard Trees