How to Rebuild a Camper Floor
The original seals and factory caulking used on campers can deteriorate, particularly in campers kept where high humidity, salinity or temperature is regularly experienced. Water entry or the exposure of floors to high levels of moisture for over-extended periods will cause rotting, although this is not typically the cause of "soft" floors. Particle board used as a trade-off between rigidity and heavy weight reacts poorly to moisture and will separate or disintegrate after only short periods of exposure. Particle board swells simply due to humid atmospheres and glued floor coverings trap moisture in place, accelerating damage. Prompt repair is essential to keep the problem from worsening.
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Things You'll Need
- Scraper
- Wide pry bar
- Permanent marker pen
- Stud locator
- Electric drill
- Reciprocating saw, circular saw or jigsaw
- Tape measure
- Countersink bit
- Glue softener
- Marine grade plywood
- Sheet insulation
- Deck screws
- Glue activator
- Floor covering
- Glue
- Carpet threshold bar
Instructions
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1
Check the camper to determine the locations of all damaged floor areas. The center of large open areas is notoriously susceptible, as is the area just inside the entry door, the floors under the galley and bathroom and those beneath the water heater and water tank.
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2
Tear up linoleum sheeting or old floor tiles. Use a proprietary glue softener and a scraper to remove any glue left around the edges, where firm floor is to be retained. Remove the carpet by lifting one corner, then inserting a wide pry bar, working it backwards and forwards to free the desired area. Roll the carpet back to reveal the damaged area.
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3
Use your permanent marker pen to designate each area of damage. Inspect the areas and remove all metal fasteners; if ignored, these will damage your cutting tool.
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4
Use a household stud locator to find under-floor support timbers that bracket the described areas, and mark their internal edges using a permanent marker pen. Mark the external edges of the support timbers, then draw a third line midway between the two. This will be the line you saw along.
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Drill a hole through the floor in a place where there is no support timber. Measure the approximate thickness of the floor, and set your saw to that depth. This will leave the support timbers untouched and obviate the risk of damage to under-floor fittings, such as pipes and ductwork.
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6
Cut out the damaged area. To facilitate an accurate and neat replacement, it is imperative that the cuts be straight and the corners square.
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Check your measurement of the floor panel thickness. It is imperative that the replacement sheeting be exactly the same thickness, to avoid a dip or rise between the old floor and the new.
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Reconnect the camper to city water, once the rotted floor has been removed, then inspect all pipework and appliances near the project area. If no leaks are found, the damage was caused by a leak from outside. If leaks are found, rectify them before continuing with the flooring project.
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9
Measure the dimensions of the hole and transfer them to the replacement panel using your permanent marker pen. Cut out the new panel. Use marine-grade plywood to make the new floor.
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10
Replace under-floor insulation, if the void between the outer skin of your camper floor and the damaged area was filled. Use sheet insulation available from any home improvement warehouse.
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11
Drop the new panel into the hole, so that it seats cleanly around on the lips of the half-exposed support timbers.
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12
Install treated deck screws every six inches around all four sides, siting them so they are driven into the support timber half way across the width of the exposed lip. Countersink every screw hole to avoid raised areas interrupting the level of your new floor covering.
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13
Use a roller to spread glue-activating solution over the area, and allow it to dry. Glue the underside of your new floor covering, and lay it---being extremely careful that the initial contact is made precisely. Roll the original carpet back into place, or lay new material.
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14
Use a carpet threshold bar to disguise the joint between new and preexisting floor coverings.
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References
Resources
- Photo Credit rv image by Greg Pickens from Fotolia.com
