Step-by-Step Instructions for How to Make a Chainmail Necklace
First worn in battle during the 4th century, chainmail shirts, skirts, bishop's mantles and mittens protected ancient Celtic warriors from their opponent's blades. Now, thousands of years later, chainmail -- or chainmaille -- is wearable art embraced by the jewelry-making community. Easy to learn and utterly addictive, the enduring technique of chainmail is the cornerstone of stunning necklaces, bracelets and earrings. The European four-in-one weave is the most common of hundreds of chainmail patterns. It can expand in any direction indefinitely -- each one ring going through four others -- providing unlimited design possibilities, from jewelry and accessories to clothing.
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Things You'll Need
- 18-gauge jump rings or jump ring maker and 18-gauge wire
- 1 pair of wide flat-nose pliers with smooth jaws or jump ring opener
- 1 pair of slim flat-nose pliers with smooth jaws
- 1 rotary or vibratory tumbler or jewelry polishing cloth
- Toggle or lobster clasp
Instructions
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Practice Opening and Closing Jump Rings
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1
Grasp both sides of the jump ring with one pair of pliers in each hand. Pull the right side toward you while pushing the left side away from you to open the ring. Do not pull the ring open, it will distort the round shape and weaken the metal.
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2
Close the jump ring by gripping each of its sides with a pair of pliers in each hand and slowly moving the right side forward until it meets the left side.
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3
Move the right and left sides just beyond where they meet; this creates a little tension. Wriggle both sides back until you hear a tiny "click" sound, which ensures you have made a flush, seamless close.
Assembling the Chainmail Necklace
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4
Measure your neck to determine the necklace length you require. Open and close several jump rings and place them in their respective piles. Take four closed and open one jump ring to begin the chainmail pattern. Thread the four closed jump rings onto one open ring. Close the open ring. Hold the piece above eye level with the four closed rings dangling at the bottom so you can see how the pattern is taking shape. Arrange the rings -- in your hands or on the table -- so there is one ring in the center flanked by two rings on either side.
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5
Take two closed rings and one open ring from those you prepared and set aside. Weave the open ring completely through the two closed rings on one side of your initial ring set. Thread the two closed rings through the open ring. Close the open ring. Hold the whole set above eye level to view the two closed rings dangling at the bottom of the set to see how the pattern is progressing. Attach a short length of wire at the other end of the ring set to mark the beginning of your chainmail pattern.
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6
Continue the chainmail pattern using two closed rings threaded through one open ring, then closing the open ring, until the chainmail is the right length for your necklace. Attach a jump ring to both ends of the necklace. Attach a clasp closure to finish the necklace.
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Tips & Warnings
Refer to photo tutorials to ensure your chainmail pattern is correct, especially when you first begin the pattern.
You may use any size or gauge of jump ring made of aluminum, copper, brass, sterling silver, gold or gold-filled, or stainless steel. 18-gauge is the easiest thickness of wire for beginners to use. To add some color, try anodized titanium and niobium rings integrated into the design.
Practice the chainmail technique using the least expensive metals like aluminum and copper.
Chain-nose, bent-nose or needle-nose pliers may be used -- whichever pliers are most comfortable and allow you to simultaneously hold one side of the jump ring with one set of pliers and maneuver it closed with the other. Many seasoned chainmail artists use one pair of flat-nose and one pair of chain-nose pliers.
Avoid using pliers with teeth that will scratch soft metals like copper, sterling silver and gold. Consider rubber-coating your tools in one of the tool dips available at jewelry supply stores or online.
Making chainmail jewelry puts enormous stress on your hands and wrists. Invest in the highest quality, ergonomic pliers you can afford. Two brands to consider are Lindstrom and Beadsmith, and pliers that are manufactured in Germany.
While working on chainmail or any jewelry application, it is important to be comfortable, with your back well-supported. Do not hunch over your work; it stresses your back and your neck.
Protect your eyesight by working in good quality lighting. Protect your eyes by wearing safety goggles, just in case a piece of wire or a jump ring unexpectedly flies up out of your grip.
References
Resources
- Photo Credit necklace image by saied shahinkiya from Fotolia.com
