How to Use Acoustic Ceiling Tiles for a Bass Trap

Improve your recordings by improving acoustics.

Home studio owners like to get creative with materials when tweaking their room acoustics because any money saved on treatments can be used to buy cool gear. If your room needs bass absorption and also could stand a little mid/high deadening, then it could benefit from a bass trap. Readily available acoustic ceiling tiles possess the right combination of low-end transmission, mid-range absorption and high-frequency diffusion to serve nicely as the acoustically critical front face of a corner bass trap. A floor-to-ceiling particle board enclosure places the bass trap in the critical rear triple corner while protecting and supporting the somewhat fragile tiles.

Things You'll Need

• 1 sheet smooth particle board, 8 feet by 4 feet by 1/2 inch
• Tape measure
• Chalk line
• Straight edge
• Circular saw
• Drill
• Drill bits
• Drywall screws
• Wood glue
• 8 cubic feet semi-rigid fiberglass insulation
• 2 square-edge, lay-in, fine-fissured acoustic ceiling tiles, each 4 feet by 2 feet by 5/8 inch
• Utility knife
• Staple gun

Instructions

1. 

   Measure the rear sides.

   Mark two long rear panels on one sheet of particle board. Measure one panel to be 8 feet by 17 inches and the other panel to be 8 feet by 17 1/2 inches. Use a chalk line to mark the measurements.

2. 

   Measure for the end pieces.

   Mark two triangular end caps in the unused area of the particle board. Make each end cap a 45-45-90-degree triangle with sides 18 inches, 18 inches and 22 1/2 inches. Use a pencil and straight edge.

3. Cut the two long rear panels and the two triangular end caps with a circular saw.

4. Build the back of the first corner trap with a 90-degree butt joint. Use drywall screws and wood glue to attach the long edge of the 8-foot-by-17-inch piece to the long edge of the 8-foot-by-17 1/2-inch piece. Place the 1/2-inch edge of the 17-inch wide piece against the 17 1/2-inch side of the slightly wider piece so that the inside dimensions of the assembled corner are both 17 inches.

5. 

   Cut the boards carefully.

   Attach the triangular end caps to the tops and bottoms of the back section you just built. Use wood glue and drywall screws.

6. Lay the wood box down on its back.

7. Fill the box with semi-rigid fiberglass insulation to within 1 inch of the front opening.

8. Trim the long edges of two acoustic ceiling tiles to a clean, 45-degree bevel. Trim them with a straight edge and utility knife so that the fronts remain 2 feet wide and the backs are narrowed to about 22 1/2 inches.

9. Staple the acoustic ceiling tiles flush to the front opening of the enclosure, leaving the factory-finished side facing out.

10. 

    The ceiling tile will have beveled edges.

    Place the finished acoustic ceiling tile bass trap upright in one of the rear corners of your control room.

Tips & Warnings

• Make two of these bass traps, one for each rear corner of your control room.

• If the ceiling clearance is lower than 97 inches, shorten the design to make it fit.

• Leaving an air gap of several inches between the bass trap and the wall increases bass attenuation.

• Glue a piece of scrap carpet to the base to protect hardwood flooring.

• Anchor the top of the bass trap to the wall to prevent the trap from tipping over.

References

• "How to Build a Small Budget Recording Studio from Scratch;" F. Alton Everest and Mike Shea; 1988
• "Electronic Musician;" Build a Better Bass Trap; Ethan Winer; June 1995