Homemade Hay Trailers

Homemade hay trailers reduce labor intensity and wasted time

With average field sizes of more than 20 acres, hay growers need to get around quickly and safely, and move their produce between fields and farm as easily as possible. Build a low-boy trailer, such as a goose-neck or bumper-pull design, to maximize efficiency. Compromise on the width of your trailer to improve speeds on the highway. Create a solid platform, secure sides and a load/unload adjustable rear drop-tail to ensure your cargo remains in place during transit.

Things You'll Need

• Measuring tape
• Hard wood
• Large wood nails
• Hammer
• Large nuts and bolts
• Wrench
• Plane
• Metal frame with wheels and neck
• Steel tube
• Large metal hinges
• Wood screws
• Screwdriver
• Large metal latches
• Rope
• Attachable bumper
• Tail, turn and stop lights
• Wiring
• Switches
• Safety chains
• Chain and ratchet binder
• Hydraulic hitch

Instructions

1. Build a flatbed hay trailer. Create a large, strong platform from hard wood planks, such as oak. Make it your preferred size, for example 16 ft by 8 ft. Make it bigger if you transport larger bales or more bales than average. Fix the planks together by nailing cross-pieces underneath with large wood nails and a hammer. Secure with nuts and bolts using a wrench. Plane the edges until flush using a hand-held or electric plane.

2. Mount the platform on a metal frame with wheels, a front drawbar and an adjustable neck. To work effectively, the trailer must be strong, adjustable (by use of a large hinge at the neck) and at the correct height. Also ensure the body of the trailer is at a safe distance from the leading tractor so the two do not hit each other during turns. Measure the drawbar using a tape measure to decide on the required distance in your set-up.

3. Make a 8 5/8-inch main tube that runs the length of the trailer, horizontally down its center. Use steel-aluminum alloy components where possible for extra strength. According to High Plains Journal, this is the most important component of a hay trailer, and can be made stronger by using thicker pipe, such as a 0.352 wall pipe that weighs 31.10 pounds

4. Make a drop-tail loading and unloading mechanism. Attach two large metal hinges to the base of the trailer using screws and a screwdriver. Fix a wood back panel into place so it drops down to ground level and doubles as a ramp for loading and unloading hay bales. Ensure the panel is high enough to contain the bales and reaches both sides of the trailer. Attach metal clips or latches to the edges for extra security during transit. Install a length of strong rope at the front to assist loading and unloading.

5. Fix an attachable bumper to the rear of the frame. Mount tail, turn and stop lights on new trailers, and wire them in. Secure with safety chains. Hold hauled equipment in place using a chain and ratchet binder. Build a hydraulic hitch at the rear of a goose-neck trailer for extra versatility. Extend it 10 ft from the rear of the trailer and make sure it can slide 5 ft at either side. Control the hydraulic mechanism using a switch at the rear of the trailer. Set the hydraulic pump inside the truck or leading tractor. Attach large implements, such as a round baler.

Tips & Warnings

• Load a tractor onto the trailer, attached to the required implements (disc mowers, rakes, square baler). Use the loaded tractor to plough or work the field. Use the leading truck or tractor to go between fields quickly, or back to the farm.

• Work safely. Use secure fastenings and lighting and take care around heavy machinery. Cutting implements used in agriculture are extremely dangerous.

References

• High Plains Journal: The red rhino, a much improved self un-loading hay trailer
• Maxwell Science: Design, Fabrication, and Testing of a Hay Bale Trailer