How to Make Irish Soft Shoes

Ghillies are similar to pointe shoes, but are made of black leather instead of pink satin and use straps instead of ribbons (see references 1).

Irish soft shoes, called "ghillies" are similar to ballet slippers and are worn by Irish soft-shoe dancers for the jig, slip jig and reel. The pliability of the shoes allows dancers to spin on a traditional hardwood dance floor while appearing both delicate and airborne, similar to a ballerina. While materials and industrial technology have improved the overall structure of Irish ghillies, their construction is similar to that of a ballet slipper as well as a slight variation to the traditional construction of an Irish cuaran or rivelin shoe.

Things You'll Need

• 2 large rectangular pieces of black tanned leather
• Waxed linen thread
• Lacing needle
• Awl
• 10 ft black leather laces
• White fabric chalk

Instructions

1. Set your right foot down on the inside of a piece of black leather and trace the contour of your foot with white fabric chalk.

2. Extend the edge of the contour from the ball of the foot to the end of the toes by about two inches all around. Just under the ball of the foot on either side, create a rounded outcrop about the size and shape of a thumb (two inches long by one inch wide) jutting out perpendicular to the edge of the foot to create a strap. Repeat just below the first strap.

3. Draw a thin rectangle with a one inch base beginning at the center bottom of the heel line on the leather. Extend the height of the rectangle 1 1/2 inches (roughly the distance between the bottom of your foot and just beneath the ankle bone).

4. Finish the contour by drawing two wings on the leather angling out from the ankle bones toward the heel at about a 150 degree angle so the bottom of the wings are 1 1/2 inches long. The wings will flutter out into one last thumb-sized strap ending just under (and with the same width) as the second strap in Step 2.

5. Thread the lacing needle and pull out about four extra inches of thread. Anchor the thread to the needle by pushing the point of the needle through the center of the thread about two inches from the end.

6. Roll the outer edge of the leather inward about 1/8 inch and stitch a quick seam around the outer edge of the leather from the ball of the foot to the toe. Stitch the toe together using an S-stitch (or cinching stitch) and pull tight.

7. Stitch the bottom of the wings to the edges of the rectangle that extends from the heel using an overcast stitch on the inside of the leather to hide the seam.

8. Puncture a hole with an awl at the end of each strap outcropping, including the rounded top of the wings, about 1/4 inch from the end of the leather. Puncture the toe leather in two places side by side about 1/2 inch apart on the top of the shoe where the leather gathers over the toe bones about 1/4 inch from the edge of the leather. Lace with about five feet of leather lace, tying any excess at the heel.

9. Repeat Steps 1 through 8 for the left foot.

Tips & Warnings

• Create a sole out of soft suede and sew it to the bottom of your ghillies for softer soles and stronger spins.

References

• "Massachusetts Institute of Technology": Irish and Celtic Culture and Art
• "The Changes in Irish Dance Since Riverdance"; Angelika Masero; 2010
• "McGregor Historic Games": Footwear for Scottish and Irish Re-enactors
• "Your Fantasy Costume": Making Iron Age, Viking, Irish Ghillies Leather Soles
• "University of Tulsa"; Marc Carlson; Thread
• "Barony of Carillion": Making a Pair of Medieval Bag Shoes

Resources

• "Paleotool": Ghillies