How to Start Perennials

Aster is one of many perennial flowers.

Perennials don't live forever, but they are long lasting. In the case of trees, for instance, they might stay around for several hundred years. Even if the tops of perennial plants die to the ground in winter, their roots remain alive in a dormant state. In spring, they begin to send shoots through the ground again. Stem cutting and root division are the best options for starting them, as many perennial plants' seeds don't produce an exact replica of the mother plant. Research whether your perennial species reproduces best from cuttings or division before beginning the process.

Difficulty:

Moderate

Instructions

Things You'll Need

• Shears
• Spade
• Small pot
• Potting mix
• Rooting hormone
• Clear plastic bag
• 3 wooden skewers

Dividing Roots

1. Irrigate the plant 24 to 48 hours before you plan to divide it. Give it 1 inch of water, even if your established plant prefers dry soil, to prevent root stress when you pull it out of the ground.

2. Cut your perennial plant back to 6 inches from the ground before you begin to dig it.

3. Dig around the base of the plant at the drip line with a spade. Each time you work your way around the plant, dig deeper until the blade reaches under the root ball. Lift the plant out of the hole with the spade. Place the root ball on the soil surface.

4. Remove excess soil clinging to the roots so the plant's base can be clearly seen. Shake the plant gently to remove the excess soil. Scrape away any remaining soil by hand.

5. Divide the roots based on the type of structure it has. Separate thick masses of thin roots into smaller mats by spreading them apart by hand. Divide root clumps that sprout from a thick base, rhizomes and tubers by cutting them in sections with a sharp spade or knife.

6. Place the divided roots in the shade. Keep them moist. Spray them with water to maintain a moist environment as you prepare to transplant them.

7. Dig holes the same size as the one the main plant was in. Place one division in the center of each. Backfill the holes with soil. Tap the ground with your palms to remove air pockets. Irrigate the ground to the root zone.

Rooting Cuttings

1. Fill a small pot with potting mix -- a clean 6-ounce yogurt container with homemade drainage holes works well. Irrigate the soil until water begins to drain and the entire surface feels wet.

2. Cut a 6-inch stem section off your perennial plant. Retain the set of leaves that's the farthest from the cut end. Pluck and discard all other foliage.

3. Dip the cut end of the stem in rooting hormone. If it's in powder formula, wet the cutting first so the hormone sticks to it.

4. Plant the cutting in the prepared pot. Insert it into the potting mix. Firm the soil around it with your fingers.

5. Place the planter in a clear plastic bag to keep the cutting in a moist and warm environment. If the bag collapses, insert three wooden skewers in the soil, spaced evenly, to hold it up. Move the cutting to indirect sunlight.

6. Water the soil when the surface begins to dry. Tug the cutting once a week to check for new roots. Resistance when you pull is a sign the stem has rooted.

7. Harden your new plant off by making holes in the plastic bag. Every day, add a new hole so more air gets inside. Remove the plant from the bag one week to 10 days later.

Tips & Warnings

• In the fall, divide the roots of plants that flower in spring or summer. Separate autumn-blooming ones in spring.

References

• Virginia Cooperative Extension: Culture, Maintenance and Propagation
• Clemson Cooperative Extension: Dividing Perennials