How to Serge Elastic
Making gathered or shirred garment details usually includes an elastic insert. It adds fullness to skirts as well as cinching and defining waistlines. Designers also incorporate decorative elastic as part of the overall garment style or as a trim detail. Several inches of fabric are added to the width or length of the insert area prior to serging the elastic to make sure sufficient fabric can be gathered or shirred. The elastic is slightly stretched as it is serged to the textile. Elastic thread is also used to prevent thread breakage as the fabric is stretched with the elastic insert.
Instructions
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Fit the elastic for the desired snugness by positioning the elastic around the insert area. For example, if the elastic is being sewn into a waistband, sleeve cuff or a dress waistline, wrap the elastic slightly stretched around the area. The elastic must not be tight and should fit comfortably for movement and ease.
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Measure this piece of elastic with a ruler or flexible tape measure. You will need this specification to accurately increase the fabric dimensions to accommodate the elastic. Add a 1-inch seam allowance to the measurement, and then stitch and close the elastic.
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Add several inches to the fabric width or length. The added inches make the gathered elastic appear fuller. For instance, if you are serging elastic to a finished 30-inch skirt waistband, a 40-inch minimum waistband length is needed. If the skirt includes a zipper closure, when the zipper is opened, the fabric is extended and thus less fabric is needed. Bear in mind that if the skirt does not have an opening, the elasticized waistband must fit over the wearer's hips.
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Thread the serger machine with elastic thread. Nonelasticized threads snap as the elastic insert is stretched.
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Change the serger or overlock machine's stitch type to an overlock or zigzag. These stitch types are open stitches sewn in a back-and-forth motion, enabling the elastic to stretch without the tension of straight stitches. In the "Singer Sewing Book," author Gladys Cunningham explains, "The elasticity of the stitch prevents the stitches from breaking when the elastic is stretched."
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Pin slightly stretched elastic with straight pins in the underside insert area. Divide the area into separate sections. For example, if the front waistband measures 16 inches, pin the elastic every 4 inches. This extra step enables you to serge the elastic evenly and at a slower pace as you approach the pinned interval.
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Allow the slightly stretched elastic to return -- also referred to as "recover" -- to its natural state. The fabric will naturally gather. Place the garment on a dress form, and make any necessary adjustments to the fullness of the fabric gathers. Remove and replace the straight pins until the desired fullness is achieved.
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Continue to slightly stretch the elastic as you serge it onto the underside of the material. Remove the pins as you approach each pinned interval to avoid any needle breakage. Keep in mind that if you serge the elastic without stretching it, the fabric will not gather. Elastic always returns to its natural state and gathers the serged material.
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