How to Tile an Uneven Outside Patio
Tiling a patio is a way to change the look of the patio entirely without replacing the slab. With the wide array of tile materials and designs available, you can resurface your patio to fit any decor imaginable. For a successful tiling job, however, you need an even surface. High points and dips in your patio slab will lead to ill-fitting tiles during application, and eventual tile breakage after use. Leveling the patio adds time to the tiling process, but it is a necessary step to ensure that you'll be able to enjoy your new tile surface frustration-free for years to come. Does this Spark an idea?
Things You'll Need
- Broom
- pH-neutral cleanser
- Scrub brush
- Level bar
- Chalk
- Concrete grinder
- Acrylic bonding agent
- Self-leveling compound
- Squeegee
- Straightedge
- Thin-set mortar
- Bucket
- Electric drill
- Paddle bit attachment
- Trowel
- Tiles
- Tile spacers
- Tile saw
- Sponge
- Carpenter's level
- Tile & grout sealer
- Grout float
- Grout
- Lint-free cloth
- Brush
Instructions
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1
Clean the tiling surface completely. Sweep the area with a broom to remove any loose dirt and debris. Remove ingrained dirt by scrubbing at the dirty areas with a pH-neutral cleaner and scrub brush.
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2
Identify the high and low points of the patio slab with the use of a level bar. Place the bar on the surface of the concrete and drag it along the length of the patio. Look under the bar for any changes in the surface beneath it that either raise the bar in one section, indicating a high point on the slab, or that shows a gap, indicating a low point. Mark each trouble spot with a piece of chalk for later leveling.
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3
Lower the high spots of the slab using a concrete floor grinder. Run the grinder over the high spots, removing the rise in the surface until the high point is even with the rest of the concrete surface. Sweep up the ground concrete dust from the slab.
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4
Raise the low spots with a self-leveling compound. Brush a layer of acrylic bonding agent over the low spots and allow it to dry slightly until it no longer appears wet but still feels sticky. Fill the low levels with the self-leveling compound to the level of the surrounding concrete surface. Spread the compound in place with a squeegee and then allow it to dry for the length of time recommended by the compound manufacturer.
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5
Create a guideline for the placement of your tiles along the wall next to the patio. Draw the line using a straightedge and chalk about 1/8 inch from the base of the wall to allow for movement in the surface without breaking the tiles.
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6
Mix a batch of thin-set mortar in a large bucket, using an electric drill with a paddle bit attachment. Mix the thin-set to the consistency of peanut butter for ease of spreading.
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7
Spread the thin-set over the concrete along the chalk guideline with the flat edge of a notched trowel. Tilt the trowel to the edge and go over the mortar with the notches to create ridges. Place the tile into the thin-set, beginning at the edge of the guideline. Press the tile firmly into the thin-set, using a slight twisting motion to spread the mortar evenly along the tile back. Place tile spacers along the edge of the tile before placing the next tile in line to create uniform tile rows.
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8
Continue along the line of tile until you reach the end, where a partial tile may be necessary. Measure the tile space and then cut the partial tile to fit using a tile saw. Place the partial tile, and then move on to the next row of tiles.
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9
Remove any excess thin-set from the surface of the tiles using a damp sponge during tile placement. Check the level of adjoining tiles using a carpenter's level. Raise tiles when needed by applying more mortar beneath the tile, or lower the tiles by pressing them farther into the layer of thin-set.
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10
Place each subsequent row of tiles following the same process described in Steps 7 through 10. Place tile spacers between adjacent rows to maintain spacing. Continue to place the tiles until you've covered the entire surface of the patio. Allow the mortar to set overnight to secure the tiles in place.
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11
Remove the tile spacers from between the tiles to reveal the tile joints. If you're using porous tiles such as granite or slate, then roll a tile and grout sealant over the tiles with a paint roller to protect the color from the grout application. Allow the sealant to dry overnight.
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12
Fill the joints between the tiles with grout. Spread the grout over the surface of the tiles and into the joints with a grout float. Wipe the tile surfaces with a damp sponge to remove the excess grout. Wait two hours, and then wipe the tiles a second time with a clean lint-free cloth to remove any grout residue that remained behind after the sponging. Wait three weeks for both the mortar and grout to cure.
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13
Brush the grout and the surface of any porous tiles with tile and grout sealant to prevent staining or moisture absorption. Wait 48 to 72 hours for the sealant to dry before using the patio.
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Tips & Warnings
Seal the concrete with a concrete sealer to add a layer of moisture protection beneath the tiles.
Wear safety goggles while cutting tiles to prevent injury from flying chips.
References
Resources
- Photo Credit Jupiterimages/Photos.com/Getty Images
