How to Set Gems in Metal
There are many kinds of gem settings, from simple wire-wrapping to complex settings made from multiple metal elements. Examples include tension settings, which use strong, stiff metals to clasp the stone in place; claw settings, which have prongs that close over the gem; and bezel settings, where a band of metal secures the gem.
You can make gem settings or buy them ready-made (often known as easy-mount settings). Such settings, or findings as they are also known, are often of the claw type. These can be a good choice for your first gem-setting projects.
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Things You'll Need
- Ready-made setting
- Gem
- Gemstone setting pliers
- Bent chain-nosed pliers
- Small jeweler's file
Instructions
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Ensure that your chosen gem is the correct size and shape for the ready-made setting. It is very easy to damage either the setting or the stone by trying to force a stone into a setting that doesn't fit.
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Check the prongs of the setting. There may be a small groove in each one just below the tip of the prong. This groove will clasp the edge of the stone to be set. If there are no grooves or if some of the grooves are not clear, gently shape or clear the grooves with your jeweler's file. Only make a few strokes at a time. The groove should be small and shallow.
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Bend the tips of the prongs inward very slightly using your chain-nosed pliers. All the adjustments you make should be very small. If you have to bend the prongs back out again, you will weaken them. The less you work the metal, the better.
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Place the stone table-side down on your work surface. The table is the flat facet on top of the stone. Place the setting on top of it so that the stone is held snugly by the prongs.
If your setting is the snap-to-fit kind, press down until you feel the stone click into place in the notches in all four prongs. Your gem is now set. You may need to make some minor adjustments, but your piece of jewelry is essentially complete.
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Begin as before if you are not using a snap-to-fit finding; clean the notches in the prongs and adjust them, then place your stone table-side down on the work surface. Press the finding down gently. Ensure that the stone is held firmly by the claws.
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Tighten the claws around the stone using the gemstone setting pliers. These are special pliers that have one long, smooth jaw and one shorter jaw that has a groove in it. The claw of the setting fits into the groove. This lets you hold the setting securely while you gently tighten the prongs.
Fit the claw setting into the short jaw, with the long jaw pressing on the opposite claw. Using the lightest possible pressure, tighten the claws over the stone.
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Tighten the claws further with your chain nose pliers, if necessary. Do this by squeezing the opposite claws very slightly toward each other. Apply only gentle pressure.
Once these adjustments are complete, your jewelry is finished.
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References
- All About Gemstones: Gem Mining and Jewelry Production
- WigJig: Setting Gemstones in Tiffany Rings
- WigJig: Using Gemstone Setting Pliers to Set Gemstones
- All About Gemstones: Jewelry Making: Jewellery Design & Fabrication
- Adventures in Jewelry: Gemstones, Jewelry Design, Gold, Silver: Gemstone Words and Terms Glossary
Resources
- Photo Credit treasure chest image by Julianna Olah from Fotolia.com
