How to Finish Raw Edges on a Garment Seam

Judging by the resurgence in sewing classes and the increase in sewing websites, TV shows like "Project Runway" have helped to spark a trend in home sewing. But you don't need to be a designer to make unique and affordable clothing. With little more than a pattern, well-chosen fabric and a sewing machine, anyone can make a beautiful garment. Most beginners' questions can be answered by referring to the sewing pattern instructions. One basic and essential technique, though, is often not addressed in the pattern. That is how to finish the raw edges of an unlined garment to prevent unraveling.

Things You'll Need

• Needle
• Thread
• Scissors
• Beeswax (optional)

Instructions

1. 

   Different size sharps

   Select a needle that is appropriate for the fabric type. Cut a length of thread about 24 inches long. This can be the same thread you used to stitch together the garment, probably mercerized cotton or a synthetic thread. When cutting the thread, remember to always do so at an angle to ensure easier needle threading.

2. Wax the thread by pulling it through beeswax if you choose. Then slowly pull the thread between your thumb and index finger. The heat from your fingers will soften and set the wax. Pass the cut end of the thread through the eye. Knot the end of the thread .

3. Begin your work on a pressed-open seam, inserting the needle from back (wrong side of fabric) to front about one-quarter inch from the cut edge. Then, working from left to right or vice versa, make diagonal stitches over the edge, spacing your stitches about one-quarter inch apart, and always bringing the needle from the wrong side to the right side of the fabric. Avoid pulling the thread too taut as this will cause the fabric to pucker.

4. Make a tiny stitch on the wrong side of the fabric over your last stitch when there is about 4 inches of thread left on the needle. Pull the thread until there is a small loop. Run the needle through the loop forming another small loop. Run your needle through this second loop to form the knot.

Tips & Warnings

• Many sewing notion companies sell packets of different size "sharps." Sharps are medium length needles for general hand sewing. If the fabric is fine or delicate, you will want to use a sharper, more slender needle.

• While waxing thread is not necessary, doing so adds strength and improves handling. Prewaxed hand sewing thread is readily available, however, waxing your own is much less expensive. Quilting and sewing suppliers sell small, slotted plastic containers filled with beeswax.

• Never lick mercerized cotton thread! The thread is coated with mercury and ingesting it may be harmful to your health.

References

• "The Vogue Sewing Book"; Elizabeth J. Musheno, Editor; 1975
• "The Complete Book of Tailoring"; Adele P. Margolis; 1964