How to Make an 18th Century Bonnet

You can hand-sew or machine sew this bonnet

No self-respecting 18th century lady---no matter her class---would leave the house without her head covered. For an authentic period costume, a bonnet is essential. While bonnet styles during that era varied considerably, the most simple were made of cotton and ornamented with lace, ruffles and ribbons. This style of bonnet is quite simple to design and make and can be sewn either by machine or by hand. It has ribbons threaded through the lower hem, which you pull in opposite directions to gather and tighten the bonnet at the nape of the neck.

Things You'll Need

• Measuring tape
• Pencil
• Ruler
• Pair of compasses
• Paper or thin cardstock
• Scissors
• 100 percent cotton or linen fabric, white
• White lace or ruffle trim, 2 to 4 inches wide
• 2 narrow white ribbons
• Pins
• Sewing machine
• White cotton thread
• Sewing needle

Instructions

How to Make the Pattern

1. Use a measuring tape to measure the bonnet wearer's head from ear to ear, taking the tape across the crown of the head. Make a note of the measurement.

2. Using a pencil, a ruler and a piece of paper or thin cardstock, draw a straight line the length of the ear-to-ear measurement you noted. Draw a small dot with the pencil at the very center of the line.

3. Take the pair of compasses and place the point over the dot in the center of the line. Move the pencil on the compasses to one end of the line, then draw a semi-circle connecting that end to the other end of the line.

4. Draw a second straight line 2 inches from the first one and parallel to it. Connect the end points of the first line with the end points of the second one. You should now have a semi-circle with a 2-inch deep rectangular strip underneath.

5. Cut the shape out along the outer edges with scissors. This is the pattern for your bonnet.

Making the Bonnet

1. Place the paper pattern on your white cotton or linen fabric (which should be pre-washed and pressed) and draw around the edges with a fabric marker or pencil. Cut the fabric shape out.

2. Fold and pin a narrow hem along the curved edge of the fabric shape, folding the raw edge over to the wrong side of the fabric by 1/8 inch then another 1/8 inch. Because you are working with a curved edge, you will need to make tiny tucks in the fabric with your fingers, manipulating the hem to lie flat, and use lots of pins to hold it in place.

3. Thread your sewing machine and set it to sew a small straight stitch. Slowly and carefully sew along the inner folded edge of the hem, removing the pins as you work. Alternatively, sew the hem by hand using a small running stitch.

4. Fold the straight (bottom) edge of the bonnet over to the wrong side by 1 inch, then another inch. Pin this hem in place, then sew along the upper edge by machine or hand. Do not sew down the side edges of the hem.

5. Place the bonnet flat on a table. Take the lace or ruffle trim and measure it around the curved edge of the bonnet. Cut the trim so that it will fit perfectly around the curved edge, plus an inch at each end for hemming.

6. Fold and pin each short end of the cut length of trim over by a 1/2 inch, then another 1/2 inch. Stitch the hems.

7. With the bonnet right side up and flat on the table, arrange the cut and hemmed length of trim, hemmed side down, around the curved edge. Pin the lower edge of the trim to the curved edge of the bonnet so that its edge overlaps the top of the bonnet by about 1/8 inch. The upper edge of the trim (the unpinned edge) will naturally gather a little. Hand or machine-stitch the trim to the curved edge of the bonnet.

8. Cut two arms' lengths of narrow white ribbon. Hand-stitch the end of one ribbon to the inside edge of the right-hand side of the folded hem at the bottom of the bonnet, then thread the other end of the ribbon through the hem from right to left. Repeat this with the other ribbon, stitching this one to the inside edge of the left-hand side of the hem and passing the other end through from left to right.

Tips & Warnings

• If the bonnet does not easily stay in place with just the ribbons, use a few hair pins.

• You can vary the design by using wider or narrower trim.

References

• La Couturiere Parisienne: 18th Century Women's Head Coverings
• Fashion-era.com: Hair and Hats Sketches of Hair and Hat Fashion History 1800-40
• Vintage Fashion Guild: The History of Women's Hats